slack in throttle

[lilfoo2225]

lol!

[swordfishman]

OK, new throttle body showed up today and happily took it out of the package expecting for the throttle plate to move linearly with the throttle arm (usually attached to the throttle cable).  Sadly this one acts exactly as the the one on my boat.  When you move the lever it has only the resistance of the spring until you have moved about 50-60 degrees then you have about 30 degrees of actual throttle plate movement.  I have not put this on the boat yet but now I don't know that there is any value in it. 

Capt. Rick was adamant about the fact that this part was non-returnable.  I hope that does not includes things that show up broken. 

Based on WakeJunky's description of a functional Lever Position Sensor it looks like have two broken throttle bodies now. 

Really starting to wish I had purchased the Correct Craft at this point.

[wakejunky]

slow up. the throttle body is fully electronic. the actual resistance you feel is the back up safety mechanism. it helps you limp the boat back to the dock if the electronic throttle fails. you did do the test with the key on didnt you? with the key on and you only get 30% throttle at full throttle means there is a failure in the electronic throttle. usually the throttle lever sensor (boat) or accelerator position sensor (car). that sensor is what actually controls the throttle motor. try the new throttle body. just hope you tested the old one with the key on??

[swordfishman]

I sure hope that is it.  Thanks for the heads up on the fail-safe.  I admit my experience is with directly actuated throttles.  The idea of a fully electronic throttle sounds like a bad idea. 

I hope to install the new unit tonight and maybe put her in the lake Friday or Saturday. 

Thanks again for all of the help I will update this topic with my results good or bad.

[breakawaydaze]

Don't give up on your epic yet.  When you were trouble shooting, did you check all the cables from the control lever to the engine compartment to make sure they were not binding or came loose from their guides.  Also did you check inside the lever to confirm that the end of the cable did not come loose from the connection point in the throttle assembly...

[swordfishman]

I was pretty thorough about looking for the simple solution.

You lost me a bit when you reference a connection point "in the throttle assembly".  The only interconnect between the throttle cable and the throttle lever is the ball/socket quick connect.  All of this mechanical interface was fine all the way back to the throttle handle. 
I had intended to take home an Oscilloscope to complete some of the debugging mentioned in the manual.  That hasn't happened yet as I only have access to our high-end digital scopes right now.  I would prefer to borrow one of the older analog scopes. 

I will double check the electrical connections again tonight.  I think I can escape the office early enough today to get the new throttle body installed.  If I left now I could even drop her in since my yard is conveniently a lake.

[swordfishman]

OK, new throttle body is installed and working!  I was REALLY tempted to take her out on the water tonight.  It was flat calm and perfect mirror of the setting sun but a tad cool.

I want to thank all of you for your help during this trying time.  Now I just need a wakeboard!  The water is only 60 degrees and it is supposed to be in the 70's for the rest of this week.  I will get her in the water this weekend for sure.

One last question, does the throttle motor always hum or should it be intermittent?  Mine is always humming.

Cheers and thanks again!
Benjamin

[wakejunky]

glad to hear its fixed it will definitely be a whole new boat. and yes the throttle always makes a humming noise as long as the key is on.

[swordfishman]

I took it out this weekend and it ran like a champ.  The power was impressive.  Thanks again to all of you.  Now, I need to work out my AccuSki.  I will have to do some research/investigation and start a new thread.