Your engine holds like 5.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-30. Always change your filter with your oil. Use a Toyota filter or the Mobil 1 M1-102 (
http://www.cyclone-cj.com/forum/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=257).
Get yourself a fake-a-lake (
http://www.overtons.com/cgi-bin/overtons/order/large.cgi?32740) and a fluid sucker (Oil Boy -
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&classNum=170&subdeptNum=169&storeNum=6&productId=10677).
Turn on water and run engine for just a couple minutes in gear at idle to warm up engine oil and tranny fluid (also v-drive for us S22/SX dudes). Use Oil Boy for sucking engine oil through the dipstick or through the oil change tube. I think maybe you can't get the whole thing done in one shot, so once it's filled, you empty it into a gallon container that'll end up being drained at Pep Boys, Kragen, etc. Once it is unable to suck any more oil, move on to the tranny. The pump is pretty cool - pump it a few times to build a vacuum then just sit back and let it work - takes maybe five minutes to empty the engine.
I suck all the fluids while they're warm - you just suck the engine, tranny and v-drive, then go back for filter change and fluid filling. Suck the tranny through the dipstick hole. Nothing fancy. Same for the v-drive if you've got one.
I take a plastic water bottle (ya know, a little Dasani or Arrowhead bottle) and cut the thing open kinda lengthwise so that the new hole is like the size of an oval baseball (just makes it easier for the next step). Slide the bottle thing under the oil filter and slowly start unscrewing it. Oil will begin to drain into the bottle; just be patient it'll take a minute or so and you can totally do it without spilling a drop. Wet the seal of the new filter with some oil and then put that sucker on. There's markings on the box that'll say like "screw on until snug and then go another 1/2 turn". Do that. Fill the engine up with oil.
Based on what some of the newer guys are saying, I'm gonna pay more attention to the oil level; specifically gonna avoid filling higher than the full mark. As for me, I'll dump five quarts in there and then check again after running (later). My tranny takes two quarts of Mobil 1 ATF, and the v-drive takes one quart of Mobil 1 75W-90 gear oil.
Next is the fuel filter. One of the TMS docs recommended clamping both sides of the filter during the change to prevent the lines from emptying when you pull the element off. CAREFULLY remove the fuel filter, as it will be full of fuel. Fill a new filter with gas all the way to the top and CAREFULLY spin her on tight. Remove clamps.
Finally, the impeller. Get a wrench on the serpentine belt tensioner (over by the alternator) and turn slightly to relieve tension on belt. Remove belt completely and inspect thoroughly for wear and cracking. Next, perform Pete's procedure to replace impeller. Reinstall belt.
Start water. There's a procedure to prime the fuel line and I can't really recall where it's listed. The nutshell is you've got to get the air out of the fuel line and there's two ways to do it: 1) turn the key to the ON (not start) position and then back to OFF a couple times slowly, or 2) hit some button on the engine a couple times to force the fuel pumps to pump. Basically, if you can turn it over and it fires up, you're good to go.
Start engine, put in gear for just a minute or so then let idle for a few minutes while you check the fuel system for leaks, the impeller area, oilpan area for oil, etc. Secure engine and water. Let engine stand and then check engine, tranny and v-drive oil levels. Top off as required. Next time you're out on the lake, wait till the boat's really warmed up and then check levels on the water.
One note of caution: when I first got the fake-a-lake, I was not afraid to run the boat in idle in gear until one day a nasty whining sound started coming from the engine. As it turns out, the propshaft strut has a funky bearing that gets hot when it's out of the water. Now I just keep a squirt bottle handy and spray water up at it every once in a while to keep it wet. MAKE SURE NO KIDS COME AROUND WHEN YOU'VE GOT THE PROP TURNING. Or dogs, or democrats (sorry).
Cal, my transmission filler hole is threaded - the dispstick fits in there and tightens down. The v-drive dipstick just seats down, with no threads involved. Don't be afraid to check the owner's manual for direction on how to read levels. It's accurate every once in a while, but not all the time.
I'm not sure how the winterizing affects this process, as mine is aimed mainly at annual service, not winterizing. The correct time for this is at the end of your season (unless your season's year-round, and then for now, I choose Christmas break ;-).
A very important step is missing here: checking engine/propshaft alignment. Haven't done it, but will soon. If your propshaft packing has been leaking a lot and you're unable to get is to stop while it's parked, you'll need to change the packing. A GREAT time to change packing is when you're checking engine alignment. A great time for that is right before you srart the engine up the second time above. Alignment should be done once a year. Someone really on the ball might even check it halfway through, too. Alignment probs cause vibration, which is very bad for gears and engines.
Hang in there dude. My first time was like a weekend of fun, the second was maybe a couple hours altogether.
