Prop change question

[toyotafreak]

I've never changed an inboard's prop. The owner's manual shows it as a pretty detailed process. My initial thought was to tow the boat down to a dealer and pay them to change it while I watched/learned.

I've read somewhere that relying on the puller is not good enough, that the job really requires heat.

The props in question are the original three blade Nibral and a new OJ stainless four blade.

[atlantabuff]

I did the same thing, now I'm set.  But you don't need to.  Get a rubber mallet, and use a prop puller.  Mine came off fine.  The new prop went on great, they used a lubricant (I don't remeber what kind) when they put the new prop on.  

So after I had my old prob refurbished, I put it and the mallet in my storage area.

[atlantabuff]

Oh, by the way good choice on the OJ stainless.

[Gearhead]

They probably used anti-seize or white lithium grease.

But yeah you just take the prop nut loose (but not all the way off) and use a prop puller. OJ actually sells a prop puller that works pretty well.

[toyotafreak]

Thanks guys. Followed your advice on prop selection.

Got the JustinCase, so I've got that puller.

The thing that scared me was stories about using heat during prop removal.

I appreciate your help.

[Gearhead]

I've changed a fair number with no heat - just a hammer to the back of the prop right by the shaft usually does the trick nicely. Spraying some nuts off or other penetrating lube into both ends of the prop hole before removal will probably help too.

Oh - be sure to wear gloves - prop edges can be sharp

[toyotafreak]

Bonehead Derek here:

Looked at the markings on the prop before ordering the new one. Missed the markings on the forward end of the shank that said 1 1/8" driveshaft.

My notes from the Toyota Marine documentation I reviewed in Dallas stated over and over agin....1" even.

So, let's see if Discount Inboard Marine and Oscar Johnson will show some compassion fo my sorry a$$.

ITS ONE AND ONE EIGHTH !!!!

Damn, side by side the stock three blade looks like it belongs on a Bravo 2, and the OJ 4-blade looks like it should be on Earnheardt's bass boat :-)

[toyotafreak]

By the way, your guidance on tapping with a mallet worked just great, and I appreciate your guidance to leave the nut on the shaft.

The thing came off with a ping and launched back against the nut. Had it not been for that nut, it might have cost me a nut.

[Gearhead]

Glad I could help

You must have an S22 right?

I think the 1 1/8 was used on the S22.

[cyclone]

Them Earnhardt (RIP) Gambler Bass boats? Them're REAL NICE. Made by Maritec, the interiors and fit and finish look a lot like summa them Toyotas.

One thing you should do (it's in the Owners manual) is to take the new prop, some valve lapping compound (auto parts store) and seat the prop to the shaft. You basically put some lapping compound on the shaft, push the prop on there, and spin it 10x one direction, then 10x the other direction. Do it five times. Then you are supposed to use prussian blue to check the contact area, should be more than 60% of the surface area of the shaft. I skipped that part, no prussian blue. After replacing the prop, I no longer had an annoying "buzz" under hard acceleration.

[toyotafreak]

FYI: Karen at Discout Inboard Marine did not hesitate in getting me the right prop despite my stupidheadedness. She is not charging a restocking fee or anything.

I am new to the game, but these guys already have me.....