overheat

[davidgree1]

I have a 2001 SX.  It has the internal sacs.  When I hit the drain button the gages go up.  The guages read overheat.  Anyone else seen this?

[cyclone]

There are some minor electrical problems with the gauges on Toyotas. They use the same Borg Warner MDDC box that other manufacturers use, but there are problems specific to Toyota. I have a problem with my gauges doing funny things that I don't believe are actually happening, the dealer tells me that there is a 1 volt drop in supply voltage from the dash to the back of the boat by the gas tank where the computer (MDDC) is located. My voltage meter goes crazy once in a while. My mechanic wants to increase the size of the supply wire from the dash to the MDDC. I will let you know what they do about the problem, but it is not a show stopper or anything. I don't think you have a true overheating problem.  

[cyclone]

I also have a factory service bulletin for Toyota ballast pumps, but it is for the X22 system with a bag in the trunk, not the hard tanks like you have. in the direct drive boats, they used to put the pump in the bilge under the back seat. They moved it to the storage compartment and increased the supply wire to 10 ga. to fix pump failure problems. Incidentally, they used a Jabsco ballast pump three years before the other manufacturers did. I'll scan it and post it as a PDF.

[SandmanS22]

I have solved these problems by taking some of the accesories off of the dash swith circuit.  I also increased the guage of the ground wire
for the distibution block associated with the dash switch controler.

I know it sucks, but that dash switch panel cannot handle the accesories.  I'm having zero guage problems now.

As for over heating.  The lexus motors need to be burped frequently,

When I get home tonight I'll take a pic of the valve for bleeding the air out of the cooling system.  (this is for closed cooling only)
If the damn thing gets even 1 cup low on coolant,  the air bubble
sits in front of the thermostat.  This tells the the thermostat the motor is cool and stops the circulation.

[cyclone]

Hmm, that's interesting. My problems were related to that switch box too. The nuts were loose holding the 12vdc and RTN wires, I also think that they are too small. I ran a pair of 8 gauge wires over from the storage compartment where I put my amp as an aux 12vdc for accessory stuff. When I get my boat back, I'll take some pictures of these parts so people know what to look for.

[wakeman]

i have a 2001 S22. I have an open cooling circuit. Sometimes, with no relation to the acutally temperature of the motor, when i bring it down to idle, the temp will spike to like, 200 degrees and all the alarms go off and stuff.  At first I was very scared but now I know that can't be. Is it just a faulty dash module? Sometimes my oil pressure also shows 100 and once 104 psi. That's a little high dont you think?

[davidgree1]

I also have problems with the oil pressure reading too high.  I ran a ground wire from the ballast panel directly to the battery.  This helped with the false high temp reading I would get when the ballast system was activated, but later the computer stopped working properly( the speedo wouldn't register) .  I replaced the computer and removed the ground.  I am afraid to replace the ground as I am worried about harming the computer.  Even though I don't know if that had anything to do with it.  Any suggestions?

[cyclone]

The high oil pressure is totally normal and is the correct reading. If you tell your dealer, they will swap out the sender with one that reads 10psi lower to eliminate the alarm. The engine uses that high oil pressure to move the variable valve timing actuator. Nothing to worry about

I think that the other gremlins you have are the same ones that Sandy and I have been griping about. One is that there is not a big enough wire from the battery to the 12vdc supply under the dash. I ran a separate wire and hooked my accessories to it. There is also a 1 VDC voltage drop from the dash to the MDC computer, that wire is probably a bit to small too, that bit of fluctuation can cause the gauges to move around a bit. I wouldn't worry about it too much.

[SandmanS22]

Yep,
I have to agree with Cyclone on the ground wire.
It must be changed.
Even though I'm somewhat used to the high
oil readings its still a bit scary.
Cyclone, is it really necessary to change the sensor
to one that is 10 lower.  Can't the alarm threshold just be
changed on the digital multi gauge?
I've eft mine alone because I want to see the real deal.
I've also found that the high pressure stops when the engine
is good and warm and has been through the entire rpm range
several times.  In other ords in the middle of the day it
doen't happen.

[cyclone]

My sender was bad to start with, it was erratic. It read either 10lbs at idle or 100+ lbs. The replacement part reads 10 lbs low on purpose, but I don't know if the multi-gauge can be reprogrammed. It is made, along with the computer, by Borg-Warner and is used in a lot of boats. The 1UZ Toyota motor has much higher oil pressure than any other V8 used in wakeboard boats.
Now that I'm (almost) out of warrantee, if it fails again I'll go to the auto parts store. I use off the shelf oil filters for a LS400, they are the same part as on my boat.

[toyotarider]

I also have similair Oil pressure readings and temp readings. My oil pressure usually lives around 99-102 psi. I was alarmed at first but it's ok now. Also, sometimes when I come down to idle, the temp spikes to 180-200+!! at first I was very scared, but now i see that it's normal. *whew*

[cyclone]

In my boat (2000 Epic22) the MDDC (Borg Warner computer for the gauges) is mounted in the back of the boat. There is some voltage drop on the 12vdc supply to the computer under load conditions, funny things happen to the gauges. Not a big deal.