winterization questions

[JIMBO]

is there anything other then the (TSB45 V drive winterization) pdf instructions i should know about before doing my first winterization ?

i have read that some guys are running eco friendly antifreeze through the system instead of just draining everything. is this easier and or better then just draining?

does it matter if i do my (Annual Vdrive and Driveline Maintenance) now at the end of the season with the winterization or at the beginning of next summer?

any help or tips are greatly appreciated i live in canada and it does dip below freezing here and there through the winter. the boat is in my open garage as its too long to enclose and i am planning on installing a small electric heater beside the engine surrounded by insulation of some sort

[ktdust]

Jimbo,

Apart from the PDF instructions, the only things you need to do are empty the ballast bags, disconnect the tubes from the pitots (speedo sensors at the back of the boat under the platform), open up the valve at the intake for the ballast to drain the water (close it when you are done), lube the prop shaft with WD40 to prevent rust, oil wheel bearings.

eco friendly antifreeze will work and is easier that pulling all the plugs. Don't know which is better since I'm running a closed cooling system.

Some people will tell you it's better to change fluids at the end of the season, some will do it at the end and again at the beginning, but in all honesty I do it when the weather is nice. If winter sneaks up on us I do it in the spring, but I prefer to do it in the fall so it's ready to go in the spring.

I wouldn't worry too much about the weather and I wouldn't bother with the heater. I live in Kelowna and tarp the boat for the winter and keep it in the back yard. Just do as mentioned above and in the PDF, drain the manifolds, drain the block, empty the sea strainer, fog the cylinders, fill up the tank and add fuel stabilizer.

I'm going out this Saturday and then winterizing on Sunday. Usually takes about 4 hours to do the winterizing and clean the boat for next year.

If you need help give me a call on 250 718 2137 and I'm sure I can give you some guidance.

Any questions

[brad]

I refer to both of these forum member created documents at the end of the season 1. Epic Winterizing Procedure-Direct Drive (PDF); 2. Annual Vdrive and Driveline Maintenance (PDF); (see maintenance section of this website).  You may also need to blow out your shower lines or heater lines if you have these options on your boat.

I appreciate Pete and Derek for creating these documents.  Have saved me from traveling 100 miles round trip and a bunch of money if I had to take my boat to be serviced for winterization or summarization each year.

[JIMBO]

so i did everything in "Technical Service Bulletin TSB45-V-Drive_Winterization (PDF)" which includes:

-drain sea strainer and hoses
-drain exhaust manifolds
-drain oil cooler hose
-stabilize fuel
-remove water pump
-drain engine block
-drain bilge

then i looked through the "Owner Created Maintenance & Upgrade Documents" "Epic Winterizing Procedure-Direct Drive (PDF)"
and found two steps not included in the v drive bulletin:

-removed the thermostat to drain the water behind it
-fogged cylinders

anyone know why the last two steps are not included? they are important steps in my mind as lots of water was trapped behind the thermostat and fogging is important too

I also:

-left the water pump out so the belt serpentine belt is slack
-removed both batteries to keep inside on a trickle charger
-lifted the trailer tung way up with a shop crane till the prop guard touched to drain all water from hull

only thing i didn't do is pull the fuel line off the fuel pump and run the bypass button till it was dry because i couldn't find the fuel pump at the time. not sure if this is necessary ?

anyone have anything else they do that I'm missing ?

im could compile everything into one PDF document for the "Owner Created Maintenance & Upgrade Documents" for the V-drive  owners if anyone thinks it could be useful.


thanks for the offer ktdust i really appreciate that

[ktdust]

Pulling the line off the fuel pump or running it dry is not necessary. Don't forget about the ballast. T stat could have been left off the to do list because the author has a closed cooling system. Fogging the cylinders should be on there though.

[sailtl]

Just some FYI. I always ran some Marvel Mystery Oil through the fuel pumps to keep them lubricated because gasoline is corrosive. I also drained as much gasoline out of the tank when done winterizing. Gasoline only has a 90 day shelf life anymore. I would top off in the spring and change the filter after a couple of hours to get rid of any water that may have formed over the winter. Yes I also kept the trailer elevated to drain all the water.
Don't forget trailer maintenance

[JIMBO]

i have no ballast and no shower to winterize

i filled the tank and added fuel stabilizer. from a quick search on the net stabilized fuel lasts 1-2 years and apparently a full tank won't attract moisture like an empty one will. i don't know what to believe ? i know a little methyl hydrate will absorb moisture and burn through safely.

[ktdust]

There are two methodologies. Not sure which is better but both work. Drain all the gas or leave it in and stabilize. I fill up my tank and add regular stabil. I leave the boa shrink wrapped outside from October til April with no problems.