"That" topic

[Rambling Wreck]

I just can't believe that I am going to be the first one to mention ...well, er...you know, ugh...winterizing.

I have been reading on the topic, in the manual, in the "How To" and did a search to read old posts about it.

1. Stabilizing fuel - As a former general aviation pilot, I always heard to keep a tank topped off to minimize condensation. However, a grumpy old fart aka my pontoon mechanic said condensation is only an issue with metal gas tanks. He said to run the boat as low on fuel as you can using a stabilizer so that you can start with a fresh tank of new fuel the next season. My Yamaha (waverunner) guy says Premium fuel doesn't need to be stabilized. He went on at great length with a techincal definition of why regular unleaded is worse than donkey piss but insisted that Premium fuel doesn't go bad. What say you guys? Also, if condensation is an issue, wouldn't it be better to wait until the spring (after running the boat for the first time) to change the fuel filter so the old one will pick up any water that happens to form?
2. I cannot find mention of changing the impeller in the "How To" section. What happens to the water in that area? Does it drain naturally? Should it be changed in the spring before the new season? The owner's manual says to remove rubber cap(?) and both hoses from raw water pump but implies that changing the impeller is optional.
3. Since we have an aluminum engine, why is fogging recommended?
4. The owner's manual indicates that the propeller shaft coupling hardware should be removed and the flanges coated with grease. Anyone do this?
5. Does anyone coat the entire length of the propeller shaft with corrosion resistant metal protectant, as called for in the owner's manual? If so, is this a super secret code for WD-40?
6. Changing the transmission fluid is recommended but no mention is made of the transmission filter. Why? Where is it? AND, how do you remove the trans oil fill access hole cover shown in Pete's "How To"? This summer I needed to add trans fluid and forgot my tools so I just added through the dipstick tube (other side of engine). It took an entire QUART of fluid. Well, that is how much I used to get the few ounces actually required. The rest ended up all over the engine and in the bilge. That stuff is slicker than baby poop. It took forever to clean up that mess. I would like to avoid a repeat of that little adventure.
7. What's the scoop on the fuel pump/fuel rack(?) issue involving a red switch at the back of the engine???
8. Finally (the crowd roars), what about engine alignment? I think it was Toyotafreak that mentioned in a post that this is an important thing to check annually. PLEASE, someone SAY IT AIN'T SO. I can't even get a spark plug gapped properly using feeler guages. There's no way I could ever move an engine a smidgin here and a RCH there. I hate to haul the darn boat 100 miles to a shop just for that but will if you guys think it necessary.

[toyotafreak]

Hah!!! You thought you could retract the bitch slap, well let me tell you a thing or two....


These are all good questions. Let's get the brain trust focused on them this fall. I'd like to check out my little part (engine alignment) but am pretty confident that if I found it out of tolerance AND decided to try to adjust them engine mounts....the GR8DNA might be non mission capable for some time. Scared, I am.

[Rambling Wreck]

Toyotafreak, you are fast, really really fast. I was sober within hours-

[highflyn]

Hey, that engine alingment thing is easy to check. Just prey you don't need to adjust it.

[cyclone]

Wreck,
Don't frigging touch your engine alignment, it is perfect. That thing is smooth as (insert analogy involving body parts of sister in law) here. WD40 is good stuff. Water Displacement, 40'th formulation.

I know for a fact that if I drain both sides of the block and the exhaust manifolds, and the oil cooler and pull the thermostat, that my block won't freeze.

Replace your impeller. I've done mine once, 679 hours. Yeah, I know. I'm on a clean lake and I run it all the time. I bought a new one at the MC dealer, they use Indmar engines too, Johnson 812(x) Or Supra.

The trans filter is like a basket, just wipe it out. PUll the big cap and it comes out.

If you want, lemme know and I'll ride up there and help you do all this crap, I'll bring my suction can and all the right wrenches

[Rambling Wreck]

Cyclone, you are just too gracious with your time! Keep it up and all of the members are going to try to relocate to the area. I have a way of making something very simple extremely complicated. I asked all of those obscure questions as I just want to protect my boat and will research the topic to death. I am not quite ready to winterize the boat (can't afford to fill up all of the toys with gas at these prices!) but if it is a really great day to get out on the water when the time comes, maybe we could winterize a little, have a beer on the pontoon, winterize a little, have a beer outdoors at T60,... I think you see the pattern!

I ordered one of the vacuum type oil suction things when I first started to realize that the summer would indeed end. I have been looking for somebody's oil to change ever since as it looks like fun. The other mandatory item you mentioned in your "how to" is the magnetized part retriever. Oh yes......

There are still a few unanswered questions but there is time!!!