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May 04, 2025, 04:41:59 am

Author Topic: V-drive ballast (starting from scratch)  (Read 34154 times)

cyclone

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Re:V-drive ballast (starting from scratch)
« Reply #15 on: October 07, 2003, 03:36:09 am »
Too many hoses, you'll go broke buying all that hose and hose clamps!

I would recommend that you fill and empty the bags through the same hole. don't worry about venting. I use a T fitting, no check valves or anything like that. Two pumps, one goes in, one goes out. I have a ball valve seacock that I close when the bags are full. My one problem is that some water flows all the way through on the fill cycle, out through the Rule drain pump out the thru hull fitting. If I drain with the water inlet open, water goes straight through the system out the thru hull. It will pump all day long! The Rule pumps don't RESTRICT flow either way when off. They are wide open. I think that some of my problem could be eliminated if I put a loop in the hose near the through hull fitting.

Keep all aerator pumps as low as possible in the boat with the inlet on the bottom. If you lay them flat, they won't prime reliably. The Rule pumps drain my Fat Seat and sacks completely. I would stay away from the reversible pumps for a couple of reasons, they suck electricity and they are noisy. They also fail if they run dry. Aerators don't care, and pump gobs more water.
Pete

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Re:V-drive ballast (starting from scratch)
« Reply #16 on: November 25, 2003, 23:47:57 pm »

Decided to punch through the transom (under the water line) back by the steering tiller. Through this hole, water will come...this much I know.  It will be very nice (for peace of mind) to NOT mess with the engine cooling. Should be a little easier too in terms of plumbing.

There should be two Rule 1100s back there in the same spot. As far as valves go, the easiest would be an electric three-way ball valve, but I've been unable to find a decent one cheaper than a prop. (!!!) I've been reading about electric sprinkler valves and electric gate valves. Will probably go there when the time comes.

Forget the Fluid Concepts v-drive sacks - wakeworld's been talking about custom sacks (www.boardersparadise.com). You give them h x w x l and tell where you 'd like fittings. Seems to make sense that the most efficient way to fill a rectangular space is to use a rectangular bag ;-)

The stbd v-drive locker is enclosed on four sides. The port side compartment is open towards the front - connecting the locker with under-seat storage. I don't want extra weight on the port side (that's where most peeps sit), so I will probably close off the compartment to match the stbd side.

With these two voids filled, there should be up to 1150 pounds of water in there.....without stretching the bags at all, and the compartments are super smooth inside. Combined with a manual-fill Big Bump in the forward walkway, we'd be at 1800-1900 lbs nicely distributed.

The cool thing about this setup is that when Brandon's up, we just empty the aft sacks. Should be like 8 minutes to fill or empty. That would leave 650 to 700 in the front of the boat - probably cool with him - firmer, but not much bigger than stock.

Can't friggin wait to finally do this. Have I told you lately how much the wife does NOT want to hear about boat stuff lately?
Derek Boyer
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Re:V-drive ballast (starting from scratch)
« Reply #17 on: November 26, 2003, 00:29:12 am »
So here goes...

My only real concern with the sprinkler valves is pump priming. In the pic below, the intake pump will stay primed as long as the boat is not on plane. It would be cooler to have the valve on the lakeside of the pump for safety and to facilitate replacing a pump while the boat's in the water.

If the Rules do allow water to freely flow both directions, the exhaust pump should stay primed - whatever water was left in the exhaust pipe at the end of the last 'OUT' cycle will drain back through the pump and rest on the intake side.

Basically the 'IN' switch will power the fill pump and the fill valve's solenoid. Same for the 'OUT' switch. When the battery switch is OFF, both valves stay closed.


Yeah, I know you guys are sick of hearing this crap, especially since this has all been done before, etc. The cool thing is to listen to Pete and all the others as to what they've done and then look for ways to customize and  maybe improve.
Derek Boyer
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cyclone

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Re:V-drive ballast (starting from scratch)
« Reply #18 on: November 29, 2003, 22:10:55 pm »
Hey Derek!
I'm sure my wife is just as sick of hearing about boat stuff as yours is!
The system looks good, but you will probably want to ditch the sprinkler valves. They work, but they are very slow. I ripped mine out, and will add a Flow Rite aerator system valve soon. They are the ones used on Nautiques, they have a cable and lever to actuate them. I will try to rig a solenoid or a linear actuator to this valve, best of both worlds. They are 26$ each without the cable and actuator lever, but I have spent five times that on different sprinkler valves and other junk to try to accomplish the same thing. I could just mount the actuator, but it requires a 2" hole, I don't want to drill holes in my interior panels just yet.
Pete

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Re:V-drive ballast (starting from scratch)
« Reply #19 on: December 10, 2003, 00:19:47 am »
Pete, I know you can answer this question but I'm not sure if you're in town or not.

Tell me about adding fittings to ballast bags. Where can you get parts, what's the process like (no smart a$$ comments, plz) and how strong are the completed fittings.

I understand that most people who're trying to hide their forward sacs use Side Sacs under the bow cushions with mixed results. At best, they're getting like 400 lbs up there because you can't fill them.

Have you seen the waterbed tube sets? The tubes can be ordered as replacements for waterbeds using such things. The ones I've been looking at are 14.5" wide when empty/flat. To me, this means a 28" circumference, or a diameter of 9" when fully filled. There is a single fitting on the top of one end. The bags work out to 28 pounds per foot per tube. I think that two tubes will lie next to eachother in each bow seat area, and can be ordered 60" long.

Four tubes 5ft long at 28 lb/ft works out to 560 lbs. More importantly, it's very far forward and off the floor. This much weight up there will preserve balance with a big sac in the trunk (Big Bump fully filled - 750 lb, or the mondo Fluid Concepts sac mostly filled - 850 lb). It just so happens that the balance is nearly identical between the Big Bump in trunk and the custom v-drive sacs mentioned above (1150 lbs).

Based on rough guesses and a little empirical evidence, here are balance calcs with four 5' tubes fully filled in bow:

1) Custom v-drive sacs: 1710 lbs ballast, boat center of gravity 2.9" farther forward than normal.

2) Big Bump, uncovered and fully filled in trunk: 1310 lbs ballast, boat center of gravity 2.6" farther forward than normal.

3) Fluid Concepts or custom sac in trunk, filled to 950 lbs: 1510 ballast, CG at it's normal location.


The forward CG is probably a really good thing for driveability, bow rise, etc. The one time my boat's been heavy was 1050 lbs shifting the CG aft around 3". Bad bow rise.


If I could install sac fittings on the ends of the tube sacs, I believe the battle would be won. I'd tie each side's sacs together and plumb them back to the back of the boat. In effect, the five or six sacs become one, with both fill and empty pumps at the lowest point in the system. I'd orient the standard fittings on the tubes forward and upward in the bow and connect them together, then through a restrictive check valve and into the existing through-hull.

The aft sacs would be drained and filled through fittings near their lowest points. With the custom sacs, this is easy; with Bump in the trunk, I'd like to add a fitting in the center, bottom of the sack (down by the rudder's tiller). The top fittings of the Bump or custom v-drive sacs will exhaust overboard through a restrictive check valve as well.

The exhausts will allow the bags to burp themselves and will indicate when bags are full. The restriction will ensure that both forward and aft ends of the system fill. The check valves will ensure that air doesn't enter the system when draining (which could break the drain pump's suction.) Since the bow sacs are low and the aft exhaust/drain is high on the gunwhale, I don't think the sacs will siphon/self empty while underway.

Based on Pete changing his mind yet again (you da man ;-) you'll see a  change from solenoids to simpler cable-actuated valves. Will probably connect switches to either the valve actuator handles or to the valves themselves which will energize their associated pumps. Manual actuation can't be such a bad thing, right? Pull the valve handle (up by the helm) and the pump turns on.

Might not need the exhaust/bleeders, but they make sure for sure, ya know? Comments?

By the way, gethighsports.net (home of the Big Bump) is selling these huge sacs for $55 right now. Pretty damn good if you ask me. In all likelihood, I'll just grab a pair of these bags and do it old school for a while.



Derek Boyer
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Re:V-drive ballast (starting from scratch)
« Reply #20 on: December 10, 2003, 00:31:23 am »
Una mas para ustedes:
Derek Boyer
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Re:V-drive ballast (starting from scratch)
« Reply #21 on: December 10, 2003, 01:21:58 am »

Found in wakeworld archives....

By Psyclone (cyclonecj) on Monday, June 02, 2003 - 8:37 pm:            
 
http://www.epicmarine.com/images/thumbs/drainandsack.jpg

Here is a picture of a fat seat that I modified with a Rule 1.125 through hull fitting. Cost around 10$, it is a little more expensive but very strong and reliable.


How has this held up, and could you talk to it when you get a chance Pete?


« Last Edit: December 10, 2003, 16:15:13 pm by gr8dna »
Derek Boyer
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cyclone

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Re:V-drive ballast (starting from scratch)
« Reply #22 on: December 11, 2003, 05:20:04 am »
Hey Derek,
The fitting deal has been working flawlessly for a year or so. It is a big fat 1.125 Rule through hull fitting. I chose this one because it has wide, flat flanges that seal well to the bag. I will do it again without hesitation. Basically, you cut a round hole in the bag about the size of the fitting (not the flange!) then apply some 5200 marine sealant to the back side of the through hull flange and stretch the bag a bit to pop it through. Put the nut on and tighten it up, instant watertight bigass fitting. I bought it at West Marine for under ten bucks.

You are correct, I am not home I'm in Beaumont, TX. Sheothole of the western world.

Pete

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Re:V-drive ballast (starting from scratch)
« Reply #23 on: December 11, 2003, 16:21:37 pm »
I figured that Needles or Barstow or El Centro would be on the sheothole list but not Beaumont. Guess I need to visit there to gain a new respect for our trailer-tropolises ;-)

I need to just get a pair of sacks and a pair of pumps and shut up.

I did check out the flow-rite valves you mentioned and it looks like you're right about it being relatively easy to rig up a solenoid to them. They only need 60 degrees of travel.

The one good thing about just getting sacs and pumps [besides 1) being cheap, and 2) letting the wife learn first-hand why we wanna do auto systems] is that there are two pretty significant equipment shortcomings right now - bitchen high-flow reversible spark-proof affordable pumps and electrically-actuated high-flow affordable valves.

Who knows, maybe in a year or two one of us will have come out with a bitchen affordable ballast control panel too.


I saw the greatest line in the wakeworld archives yesterday. Someone was answering a guy who had asked how much ballast to put in their boat. He recommended you figure it as a percent of the boat's capacity, and that 100% is a good place to start. He's right, but hearing it cracks me up.

Peace!
« Last Edit: December 11, 2003, 16:44:42 pm by gr8dna »
Derek Boyer
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cyclone

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Re:V-drive ballast (starting from scratch)
« Reply #24 on: December 14, 2003, 03:45:25 am »
I saw a link to a company out west that was using a 1.5" 12vdc gate valve to flood a manifold with aerator pumps to different sacks. You need pumps on the outlet, of course. I looked all over the internet and can't find a cheap 1.25" or so 12vdc PVC gate valve. That's what we need.

The Flow Rite valves will work, they require some force to open and close, most solenoids don't have the stroke to do it, probably 1.25" or so. Linear actuators are very expensive, I was thinking of an elecric motor and worm drive, need limit switches, etc. but cheaper.
Pete

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cyclone

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Re:V-drive ballast (starting from scratch)
« Reply #25 on: December 14, 2003, 04:04:27 am »
Here's a pic of the Rule fittng in my Fat Seat.
Pete

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Re:V-drive ballast (starting from scratch)
« Reply #26 on: December 14, 2003, 22:06:24 pm »

Looked under the bow cushions yesterday (for the n-teenth time) and absolutely, positutely, there's not a lot of room under there. Don't see how you could get more than 200 pounds into a pair of side sacks up there.

Santa's aware of the Bump sale, so cross yer fingers for no more gr8dna posts on this topic for a while.

Derek Boyer
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cyclone

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Re:V-drive ballast (starting from scratch)
« Reply #27 on: December 17, 2003, 01:20:31 am »
Derek,
I don't think you need the crossover tube or the air bleed stuff, I would leave that stuff out unless you find that you need it. One think you will notice, when you are filling, you will have water passing right through the drain pump out the through hull. I have the same issue and choose to ignore it and swill beer while filling sacks. It might take two minutes longer to fill my one big FAT SEAT, around 9 minutes. It might be solved by something simple like putting a loop in the drain hose, something with enough resistance that the water fills the bags instead of pushing past them.

Also, you will have to close the inlet hand valve (or remotely actuated valve) while draining, or you will pull the entire body of water through your system and still have full sacks:)
Pete

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Re:V-drive ballast (starting from scratch)
« Reply #28 on: December 17, 2003, 16:24:58 pm »
Pete, thanks for the feedback. Having a valve on each side is meant to prevent the flow-through that you're talking about. It's because of your experience that they're there in the first place.

I do like those Flow-rite valves. None of the three-ways seem to fit the ticket, so there would have to be one fill and one drain valve. When the actuator handle's turned, it moves the cable which moves the actuator arm on the valve. At the far end of the actuator arm's reach, there should be a switch which energizes the associated Rule pump. This way, the valve actuation is mechanical. Also, if the handle gets rotated slowly when opening, the valve will pass water to the pump's intake before the pump gets fired up. I like it.


All I know is that I wish we could have been around while they were assembling these hulls. It'd have been really cool to have tanks made for the various voids around the hull and inserted when it'd have been easy. The SX has a wet floor which is cool, but it's only ~800 pounds. If we could have had tanks made which would've stood vertically, we could've used the space in the forward and midship gunnels. That'd be good for another ~thousand without impacting any storage space. Work out a nice hard tank for the aft area, and it'd be dope straight from the factory.

Trippy to hear that even the X-star's ballast system gets hacked into by its new owners.
Derek Boyer
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Re:V-drive ballast (starting from scratch)
« Reply #29 on: December 19, 2003, 04:33:10 am »
The new Xstar can't get out of it's own wake and you need about a mile to get on plane. The wake is big but the butt-ass ugly Regal wake is bigger!
Pete

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