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February 18, 2018, 01:25:32 AM

Author Topic: Timing Belt Replacement success!  (Read 193 times)

formerathlete

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Timing Belt Replacement success!
« on: January 07, 2018, 23:13:38 PM »
After a couple nervous seasons, I finally decided to bite the bullet and change the timing belt on our 2000 X-22.  Boat only has 455 hours but it's 18 years old, so I could have been on borrowed time.  I'm not a close to calling myself a mechanic and I was extremely nervous to do this but I am pretty handy and resourceful (thank you, internet machine).  My brother also helped me along the way at a few critical stages.  Additionally, there were a few of resources that I leaned on heavily...here they are:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXlL1-Whkl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEvz-cmTUWg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCTGHurWA1c

That last video was for a 4.3L but it's basically the same procedure-wise. I watched all 3 of them as I went along and it really helped.

One KEY thing to remember...BEFORE you take the timing belt OFF, you need to rotate the engine CLOCKWISE ONLY from the crank to the little dot on the timing cover behind the crank pulley which supposedly puts it to 50 degrees after TDC.  This is a crucial step to ensure your pistons won't come in contact with your valves if you have any movement with belt off.  A lot of people say to go to TDC but that's not accurate (might work still but...I did the 50 ATDC thing with good outcome).  Go to TDC AFTER you put the belt back on to make sure your cams marks and crank marks are all lined up.  Watch videos above to understand what I am talking about here. 

I used the Aisin TKT-021 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump and it has everything you need for this job unless you are doing cam seals, I didn't.  Here's where I bought the kit:

https://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKT-021-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B008EEYWKI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1515364160&sr=8-1&keywords=TKT-021

I also used the black Toyota seal packing FIPG 103 for the mating of the water pump and thermostat housing.  I didn't use that goo with the gasket that is used for the water pump, just used the gasket from the kit...sounds like that's personal preference.

Basically, my first step to make this easier was to take the ski pylon off.  There's a bolt at the bottom of the pylon that you have to remove and then two nuts holding a U bracket that braces the pylon under the floor.  Take those off and it slides right out.

To get the crank pulley off, I used an impact wrench and 22mm socket.  Didn't come off initially but I used a hair dryer to blow hot air on it for 5 minutes (don't have heat gun or torch) and tried it again...boom, it gave in.  Doubt the hair dryer did anything but it was funny nonetheless.  I thought I'd have to use a wheel puller but I just grabbed the pulley and gave it a good pull and it came right off.  Right before taking crank pulley off, you'll want to put at the engine at TDC at cylinder #1 on the compression stroke (right front cylinder when facing engine)...then advance it to the mark/dot on the timing cover and make sure you are lined up on the 'T' of each cam (watch videos).  At that point, I marked up the belt, took the belt off and transferred those marks to the new belt.  Upon taking belt off, I experienced a slight move to the cam on the right when facing the engine.  I was able to line that back up before putting new belt on.  They want to spring roll on you...so be careful here...my engine was nice to me.  I think this is one of the main reasons for the 50 ATDC...minimizes spring roll of cam?  From there, I removed water pump and two idler pulleys.  FWIW, the old belt looked perfect, as did both idler pulleys and the tensioner.  The water pump looked pretty tired but it was working fine. 

Next, I cleaned up thermostat housing (including the trough), put the goo on there and installed new water pump, then both new idler pulleys, then put new belt on and made sure all my marks were lined up PERFECTLY.  After I got new belt on and lined up, that's when I put in new tensioner.  Waiting on tensioner until this step allowed me to have enough slack in belt to get it on the way I wanted.  Then installed tensioner, checked marks and pulled tensioner pin.  Next, I rotated the engine nearly 2x stopping just short of 2 full rotations (at TDC) to ensure all 3 marks lined up...and they did...Rotated an additional 2x just to double check.  It was perfect.  Left it at TDC based only on the crank marking and Cam markings ON THE MOTOR, not on the belt.  The belt markings are not important at this point, so don't get scared when they aren't lining up.  It's all about the marks on the engine.
From there, I just reversed my order and put it all back together.  I downloaded and used the manual that's in the maintenance section of this site for torque specs. 

Lastly, I fired it off today on the hose and it ran like it always does...perfectly.  PHEW!!  And no leaks! PHEW! Oh and BTW, I took Captain Rick's advice and used the Stant 14077 thermostat.  It's 170 degrees which is 10 degrees more than the original but it should be fine.  I'll keep original as backup.
I couldn't find anyone who wanted to do this job, so I pretty much had to do this on my own and I'm glad I did.  It's nice to know that I don't have to worry about my timing belt for at least another 10 years (if I even own it until it's nearly 30 years old).  So, if you are on the fence, give it a shot.  Lots of great resources out there and just go slow--just google 'changing timing belt on a 1UZ-FE' and you'll have plenty to read/see.  Reach out to me if you have questions...I may not have the answers but I can tell you what worked for me.

I ended up attaching the maximum 5 photos allowed.  The final two photos are with the new belt, so remember to ignore the markings of the new belt.  The markings are no longer lined up because those pics were taken AFTER I rotated the engine and stopped it at TDC (right before I put everything back on engine).  In the first few pics, you'll notice that the 50 degrees ATDC on my boat was SLIGHTLY past the T marks on the cams.  Looks like Toyota painted a yellow mark next to the T and on the cam pulleys that line up perfectly when I put the crank at that little dot on the timing mark cover.  Anyways, it worked out perfectly, just wanted to explain why it looked a bit off from the T's.

Also, here are a couple youtube videos I posted so you can see how it sounded at first start after the repair, if you are interested (it's a beautiful sound). 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b80u82oG5NQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rI1jRpSozpo

-BJ   
« Last Edit: January 13, 2018, 19:01:23 PM by formerathlete »

formerathlete

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Re: Timing Belt Replacement success!
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2018, 04:44:33 AM »
Final photo of TDC after installing new belt and rotating engine...couldn't add this to original post.

DENNIS

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Re: Timing Belt Replacement success!
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2018, 17:25:13 PM »
Thanks, I still need to do mine.  It is good to hear your belt was in good shape after 18 years.  I don't have as many hours on mine, about 380.  But it is on the list to do before summer.

Dennis
18 Seasons without a single problem.  This boat ROCKS!!

formerathlete

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Re: Timing Belt Replacement success!
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2018, 19:33:37 PM »
Good luck!  Hopefully it goes smoothly for you.