Brass drain

[Horton]

I am winterizing my boat, but the brass bolts on the block drains are worrying me.  I forgot to take my PB Blaster so I tried to carefully unscrew them, with no luck.  One looks to have been somewhat rounded in the past.  Any suggestions?

I have also seen online someone running the engine pulling from a bucket of antifreeze.  To me, this looks ideal since it contains anti-corrosives.  Has anyone tried this method?

Last, in the past, I have paid to have the engine winterized, and the boat place ran fogging oil through the intake while running rather than spraying in each cylinder hole.  Any suggestions about the better method?

[Epic Dave]

I just bought a new port side (VDrive) brass bolt for mine. I got it at my local Toyota dealer. Apparently it was used on many Toyota engines.

Here are the part numbers for both brass bolts:

9643223814   PLUG,WATER DRAIN LOCK (FOR CYLINDER BLOCK LH) this is for SB side for V-drive, port for DD
9091009087   PLUG,DRAIN COCK(BLOCK,RH) this is for port side of a V-drive, SB for DD

If he asks, tell the parts guy it's for a Lexus LS400 (not a boat).

The part numbers for the whole drain cock assemblies are in this diagram:
http://www.epicmarine.com/figures/e_Fig.php?Figure=03

As for winterization technique, I run 5 gal of RV antifreeze through mine, then drain the antifreeze. That way, I figure if a pocket of fluid gets stuck somewhere and doesn't drain, it's just added reassurance it won't freeze. I'm not sure all RV antifreeze has (good) corrosion inhibitors, so I don't like to leave it in. I could be wrong - someone else might want to weigh in. For the heater, I blow out the lines with compressed air to get all the water/antifreeze out. Same could probably be done for showers and ballast.

[Horton]

Thanks for the part numbers.  I ordered a set just in case.