SX Ballasts

[h20proof]

Are there one or two tanks to fill up on the stock SX ?
I'm just wondering if you can fill one side of the rear to make a surf wake or if you'd have to purchase additional fat sacs.

[hockey651]

On our 02sx there are two tanks one on both sides, i believe they are 40 gallons each. In order to have one side full you have to fill them both up and then drain the side you dont want.   As for wake surfing we leave them both full and then have everybody on the boat just go to the side we want to surf on, works just fine!

[cyclone]

The tanks run up to about where the walk through ends, so the weight is biased a bit towards the back of the boat. There's a diagram of it in the manual here: http://www.epicmarine.com/images/Ballast__Tower_OM.pdf

There are diagrams of all of the factory ballast systems that were available on all Epics. Including the hard tank system used in late Epic 22's and X22's.

I would like to change the switching options on my SX. This spring, I'm gonna upgrade the solenoid valves and pumps and put in a hidden switch that will allow me to fill or drain independently. Wakejunky did this by replacing the entire system, I'd like to keep the level indicators and switches because they look cool and I want to keep my boat original "looking" Definitely need the front underseat sack, and some more lead.

[brad]

Pete:

I would also like to control the tanks independently and since I'm an electrical novice, I would greatly appreciate your expertise on your upgrade.

My trim buttons also must be held in to function instead of the "push to drain, push again to turn off."  Any ideas on how solve this issue?

Thanks,

Brad

[cyclone]

Yes. I'm gonna make a hidden bypass box with a couple of switches on it to allow independent fill/drain. I'm gonna tie the front ballast in there as well. Plus, Cal gave me two big ass sacks for the aft V drive storage:) I'll make a couple of the boxes. I'm gonna get my son to do some PIC programming for the control box. It'll be cool.

[Johnny B]

my 01 SX has a fill and a drain for each side..  is that not normal on the SX's? it has 4 rule 1100 pumps, 1 fill and 1 drain on each side with independent switches. the level indicators don't work but i just fill them up till they drain out the sides.

[wakejunky]

You have the quad pump design ballast system. It was installed on early model SX's. It has independent switches. Be glad, VERY GLAD you have that system.

[FreeLance]

Hockey651 posted a couple of really good pics of the inside of the SX ballast tanks.  Check them out at:

http://www.epicmarine.com/epicphotos/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=10041&pos=1
http://www.epicmarine.com/epicphotos/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=10041&pos=2

[cyclone]

WOW that's cool. If it were me, and I had leaking ballast tanks, I'd fix them. It can't be too hard to find a leak, it just might require a couple of access plates added to appropriate spots.

[Ktown]

Those are great pictures.  Anyone know if they were taken from the level senders (under the rear seats)?  I didn't realize there was that much space in there.  I plan on working on my ballast tank in the next month or so (after my move to San Antonio).   I originally wanted to add a 12" plate to allow for easier access, but I was afraid I would hit a stringer or it would be int he way of a repair. 

Hockey651 - Do you have any other pics from other directions?  Again, thanks for the pics.

[hockey651]

No sorry those were the only ones that turned out so you could tell what you were looking at.  They were taking from the front access plate located under the glove box in the storage compartment, just in front of the overflow line, so i think we are looking at the hole ballast tank but not sure. 
Ktown, once we pull the boat out of storage ill try to get some better ones cause just like you our ballast ends up in the bilge as well and i really want to get it fix.  In one of the pictures you can see calk or something that it looks like it is coming off so maybe that is the one of the reason our ballasts tanks are leaking but not sure, when it gets a little warmer i think we might try to remove the gas tank because that would make so much room to work and if you had to put in some access plates it would be a big deal.  But the only thing that worries me is i heard its a big pain in the A$$ to remove it. 

[Ktown]

Thanks for the info...I didn't realize there was an access plate in the storage compartment.  When I checked for the leak, I put a hose in the level sender location and started filling until I saw the water leak in to the bilge.  It didn't take long, so I believe my leak is farther toward the aft section of the boat.  I am probably going to put an access panel toward the back of the tank (and probably in the transom locker).  My only worry is the Stringers, but if I can get some good pictures (like yours), I think I can get access pretty easy.  I was planning on a top entry instead of a side entry (meaning I won't have to remove the fuel tank), but I won't know for sure until I get some more info.  I am going to do a measured water test, so I can figure-out exactly what water level starts the water leak (which should tell me where the leak is).  After that, I will try to take some pictures again (to find the leak).  I will definitely post any information I get while working.  Does anybody know the best way to cut through the floor and tank area?  I want to put in a 12" access panel, but would like to be able to start small to inspect for stringers etc... before cutting the entire hole. 

Thanks again,

Ktown

[masonlk]

My 2cents,

The inside of the "ballast tank" is unfinished. They obviously couldn't glass over and seal the joints once they put the deck down on the hull. All they could do was lay down a bead of resin where ever the two joined. Real easy to get holes in this type of application.

I think the reason they were able to develop this space is because of the finish on the interior side of the boat. We've all got a real nice black gel coat finish through out the bilge. They did however have to drill and screw into this gel coat to mount the engine, wiring, etc. Plus, just pounding around in the water can cause stress cracks that could allow a leak to happen.

Find the leak and seal the gel coat from the bilge side. I'd ask a boat repair shop for the best way to seal the gel coat.

Sounds simple except for the fact that water is notorious for traveling. In addition locating the water when it first comes out against the black gel coat is just plain difficult. Not to mention the engine, eng. box, and fuel tank being in the way.

This will probably take two people. I suggest you get a black light (neighborhood pot dealer?) and some biodegradable fluorescent dye(plumbing/septic dealer). Google biodegradable fluorescent dye and you'll find lots of companies.

Pull the boat in your garage or just throw the cover on to make it dark. SLOWLY... fill the tank by hand from the access whole in the storage compartment while someone watches with the light. STOP as soon as you can see the dye and mark the location.

If you see the dye in the bilge but can't see where it came from because of equipment stop and let it dry up. My understanding is that the dye will still leave a trail you can follow after it dries. At this point you may have to remove the offending piece of equipment to get at the source of the leak. You could just caulk the crap out of everything near the leak but it won't look as good.


Good Luck!

hockey651: I think the caulk peeling up is the glue/resin/caulk that was squeezed out from between the hull and the support strut when they attached the deck to the hull. It's peeling up on the bottom of the hull right next to the stringer. I can't imagine Toyota would have caulked a hole they found at that location as the stringer is glassed in to begin with and it would have had to have been repaired before they put the deck down.

[Johnny B]

Phil Dill actually replaced my pumps. long story, but now they leak.  problem is..  the pumps mount to a flange but get screwed from the bottom and because they are located in a tight space in front of the fuel tank, there is no room to get under them with tools and they didn't get them tight.  now i have to remove the tank to get in there and fix it right.

[Ktown]

I don't think I'm smart enough to follow the black light method (although I'm sure I could find a local drug dealer).  I was just going to find the magic level at which it starts leaking (to find the best area to cut an access panel) and then inspect for leaks.  I am also not afraid to cover large areas with marine-tex or fiberglass (since it won't be visible).  I wish we had someone who has already tackled this problem.  Either way, I will try to take lots of pictures and keep good notes on what I find.  Does anyone know if there is anything they could blow in to the tank?  If I could make an access hole near the leak, I could just have someone spray a layer of something over that section of tank (I'm imagining something like Line X). 


Johnny,

I was able to take all my pumps out and reinstall them without removing the gas tank.  My pumps were actually attached to hoses before they attached to the tank flange.  Taking the hose off the flange was a little more difficult, but still possible.  I would at least recommend trying to get them off without removing the gas tank (this is a much bigger job).