Trailer Help

[tantrum]

Hello,

i have a 2001 X22 with a single axle Ameratrail trailer. I need some assistance. My trailer lights have quit working and i gave started to diagnose the problem. I have power from the truck, but once at the trailer with the blinkers on, I can hear some sort of  "clicking" by what i think must be a relay of some sort. Any information on how to get my trailer lights working again would be appreciated.

[HCollado]

I would say the issue is in the truck. Borrow another vehicle that has a trailer hook-up and see if the problem persists.  There is an electric solenoid on the tandem trailers to release the breaks when going on reverse but I don't think the single axle trailers have it.

[sailtl]

Single axle trailers DOES have a solenoid so you can back the trailer. I agree try another truck first.

[tantrum]

thanks, will give that a shot and see what happens

[Lakeside]

If you can't figure it out yourself, check with Tom's Trailers in Menomonee Falls (since it looks like you are near Mke).  They found a cracked rotor on my trailer and replaced it last summer.  Good work - I'd recommend them.

[tantrum]

thanks for that info. tom's trailers is not too far from me.

[lesman01]

Assuming that the lights have been working before with your tow vehicle and just started acting up, I would start by tracing the light wiring all the way around the trailer looking for exposed wire or a short. Double check all the connectors into the lights. Unplug, replug..check for corrosion. Inspect both the truck harness and the boat plug-in for wear.

I'm sure you've done this already... that's the easy stuff.

When the vehicle is placed in reverse, it sends power to the solenoid to disengage the surge brake actuator so you can back up without the surge brakes engaging. This may be the clicking noise you're hearing. If it is it means you may have a short somewhere in the circuit.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

[Lakeside]

Lesman reminds me...

I have had bad problems with corrosion on the trailer connector each year on my tow vehicle.  (They use too much salt on the highways in Wisconsin.)  A good blast of WD40 seems to flush out that blue/green corrosion.  This year I used WD40, followed by dielectric grease and my connections have been at their best.  Hopefully the dielectric grease will prevent more corrosion this winter on my truck.

My solenoid is currently shot, so the brakes engage in reverse.  I use electrical tape to hold a bolt in that slot on the trailer tongue where the surge brakes engage.  That lets me back up, but I've got to remember to remove the bolt, otherwise I've got no brakes on the trailer.  I've checked the electricity and power is getting to the solenoid, so I've got to take it over to Tom's for a repair sometime.

[tantrum]

my bro actually figured it out last night! we hooked it up to his truck and nothing, not even the click. he then snipped the snap connector off underneath the tongue and directly connected the 2 wires and low and behold there were lights. they work, not 100% though, no break lights or turn signals. i knew one was burned out for sure, but at least i have some power. my bro is actually going over to my place to try and fix the rest of it as we speak. he basically fell over laughing when he saw some of the wiring, so he also going to do a little housekeeping under there! i will keep you updated on the outcome.

[Lakeside]

If you want to upgrade to LED lights on your trailer, Tom's has prices that are a fraction of what you'll find at a car parts store.  I changed mine over and I seem to recall that the prices were at least 50% lower than Auto Zone, etc.

[tantrum]

Really?!?! That sounds like a good option. I would like to do that. I will definitely check out Tom's. Did you have to add a relay or anything to stop the blinkers from blinking "fast"?

[Lakeside]

I never had the fast blink problem. 

[tantrum]

Cool! I had the problem on my motorcycle when I went to LED, so I was just curious. Thanks for all the info.

[Boosted2.0]

fast blinking is causes by high current flow in the turn signal circuit - usually indicative of a short. I would buy a cheap Digital Volt & Ohm meter and check to see if you have full battery voltage to all your lights at the appropriate times, and check the whole harness for resistance to ground. If the measures resistance is less that that of a known good bulb, take the existing bulb out of the circuit and re-test.

Remember to always use insulated heat shrink to seal any repairs to the wire against water intrusion.

[Boosted2.0]

Cool! I had the problem on my motorcycle when I went to LED, so I was just curious. Thanks for all the info.

Probably the LED lights you used have a lower resistance than the original lights and hence you were drawing more amperage through the circuit. The flasher uses a bi-metallic element where the elements heat up but the metals expand at different rates causing the element to warp. This breaks the contact on the circuit, then as it cools it goes back into making contact. If you amperage is higher than normal the element heats faster, hence the fast blink.