Pure Vert

[cyclone]

http://www.mikemurphyentinc.com/purevert.html

I'm gonna put this system in my boat. I've figured out how to do it, it's a no brainer. I plan to cut holes in the tanks on the sides in the bilge on either side of the rudder. I should have room to mount the valves there. They are 3" RV dump valves. There will be two flanged fittings that will go into two 3" holes in the transom. I'll use the stock ballast controls to keep the stock appearance and the level indicators. Since it will empty much quicker, I'll use the stock trim buttons to empty one side for surfing.

[phenom_1819]

Sheeot, Pete. Took you long enough.  I mean you learned about this on wakeworld about 2 hours ago.   

This system is ridiculously cool... I've seen it in action on the MB's.  It's so simple, and fills and drains so quickly.  I figured it was only a matter of time before somebody built it themselves... I'm sure you'll find a way to make it work.  Good luck, Pete!

[bullet1w]

Pete,
anyway you could make it work for an s-22?

[cyclone]

Bullet,
You'd have to glass in the tanks in the hull, not something you can do without taking your boat apart. My SX has tanks, and there is access to the side of the tanks in the trunk near the rudder. I'll take a better look in there when I get home. I don't think it will be hard.

Cal, I have been wanting to do this since I bought the boat, I just haven't seen a boat with pure vert in person to look at how it's plumbed. It's really simple. Now that I know, it's just a matter of making the hardware fit. It's just two RV gate valves mounted to the tank, and a vent up front. I may use the original fill connections and pumps to plumb a front bag, I need to get one of those underseat sacks for up front.

[FreeLance]

Great find on the video of the install Pete.  This cleared up a question I had about if the gates are submersible and located inside the tank or between the outer hull and the ballast tank in a dry area.

From the video it looks like the gate has a dedicated dry space between the hull and the ballast tank, which will be an issue for the integrated epic tanks.  From what I can tell the epic tank extends all the way to the rear of the boat with no gap.  This leaves no space for a gate based on the Murphy system.  You would either need to build in a false wall to create a dry space or get a gate that could work under water then wire it straight up through the same hole as the level sender unit or something.

Keep us posted on what you figure out for you design.

[wakejunky]

FYI- the tanks do NOT run all the way to the transom. there is an 1 1/2 air space between the tank and transom. this gap also partially runs down the bilge side walls to accommodate the aluminum engine mounting frame. be careful where u cut.

[cyclone]

Here's a crude drawing of what I want to do.

[cyclone]

I don't have physical dimensions for what I need but if it will fit with the rudder stuff in there, we'll see. Boat is jammed into the garage right now, I can't get inside the trunk. I don't want to be cutting through engine supports or anything structural.

I'll probably enlarge the vent openings, they are 3/4 or maybe 5/8 right now.

[phenom_1819]

Pete, you owe us an update on this! 

[cyclone]

Hey Cal!
Well, I haven't had access to the trunk of the boat for a couple of months, it's been in a garage. I decided to fix the stock ballast system for the upcoming season, as I plan on leaving the stock system in the boat even if I convert to a flooder system. The two systems will be independent. I may change some functionality but I want the gauges and buttons to look stock. I think they look slicker than rocker switches and are much smaller. I like the LED level indicators too. I will also incorporate an under the front seat sack into the stock system and use the switches to turn on pumps to fill and drain it.

I am thinking about making a different controller board for the ballast system. It is a really simple microprocessor that reads the switch inputs and sets outputs to relays that turn on pumps and valves. I will get my kid to do it, he needs a project for the science fair. I will incorporate switch inputs to open and close gate valves in the programming using only the stock switch panel;)

I'm fixing one of the major problems with the system, the solenoid valves are too small and they stick. I'm replacing the .5" valve with this 1" valve.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-12-Volt-Water-Diesel-B21N_W0QQitemZ300302928934QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item300302928934&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262



I really think I can do the flooder system, I will start acquiring parts once I can get in there and measure and insure that I can do it without interfering with the rudder.

[PSullivan3]

My neighbor has a Calabria with the pure vert ,when gates open to fill it makes a whistling sound and stops when it's full, to empty just get the boat to a plane open the rear gate and it is empty

[cyclone]

Well, I got off my ass and climbed into the trunk of my boat and took some measurements. The RV waste valves are large, 10"x6"x1.75".  I could mount one to each side in the bilge. The valves stick up a bit so I'd have to make a new cover for the bilge. There is a shelf there that's about 2" so I could make it flush and it would be fine. I'd have to get tricky to route the water through the transom. I would probably make a fitting out of fiberglass or aluminum to route the water to the transom outlet thru hull.

Cost: $240 for valves, $50 to $100 for transom fittings, to make an adaptor out of aluminum or fiberglass and a trunk floor panel.


It's a lot of work and a lot of money for relatively little gain, in my case. I think I will concentrate on optimizing the factory system and putting in a front sack. I think I will make a smarter ballast computer that I can make do more stuff with the factory buttons. Just changing the solenoid valves will make a big difference in the fill times.

[brad]

I think I will make a smarter ballast computer that I can make do more stuff with the factory buttons.

Pete:

When you build this "smarter ballast computer" will you build an extra one and I'll pay you for it?  Mechanical things I limp along with but electrical, I'm out of my league.

Thanks,
Brad

[cyclone]

My plan is to make a box that will swap with the original. It would have all the same functions, but since the trim buttons are momentary I can use them to do other things. Push twice to empty that side, hold for 5 sec to fill one side independently. Even control other outputs to non-stock ballast components via the same switches. I will put other relays on the board and screw connectors so you can connect other valves and pumps. I just found my PIC programmer and the code for a simple system like that is a cinch. The hardest part will be finding the connectors if they are not common off the shelf ones.

I found a crack in my tower today so I'm pulling it off to get welded. I'll be back on ballast concerns when I get that resolved:(

[cyclone]

I did most of the code for the ballast box last night. I'm gonna make a universal design but have it be plug and play for us Epic owners;

I'm going to make it so that you can use the momentary pushbuttons (port and starboard trim) to control other functions by pushing them multiple times. Push twice and it fills that side. Three times and it fills the front, something like that. Easy to change or customize.