New Battery?

[dstafl]

The only thing that I may need is a new battery. I still have the original Interstate battery that came with the boat. (I do store it inside in the winter).

Several times it was dead this season .  It seems to be fine after 15mn or so at cruise speed.

How can I tell if I do need a new battery? and If so same kind or is there a different make or brand better.

One last question, If I run the Epic at full trottle 6000rpms I  many times get a alarm warning of low volts. Not sure if that means battery issues or worse alternator problems?

[phenom_1819]

I'm no expert at all, but it sounds like an alternator problem.   You could probably test by getting a voltage meter and check the voltage at the battery when the engine is running. Should read up over 14volts.  If it's much below, I'd guess you've got a problem.

As far as batteries, I'm a huge Optima fan. Worth their price because they are bulletproof and last forever. Blue-top deep cycle in my boat.  But if the alternator's the problem, your battery may be fine.

[dstafl]

I could check the volt meter both the small left analog gauge and the digital gauge on right. Will that give me any useful info?

I could that the battery in to a auto zone/checkers and have them check the battery.
I dont have a voltage meter.

Another question? I don't have a battery charger and I have not found jumper cables long enought to jump the boat while the trailer is attached to the car.  If I am at a boat ramp any the boat is dead. Can I have some one else jump it while on the trailer and quickly get it in the water? How long can the engine run out of the water with out any problems? I heard 45sec or less is not a problem?

[phenom_1819]

Oh yeah, duh...our boats have voltage meters. Check those -- see where the voltage is reading when boat is turned off, then check again when the boat is idling.

Can't answer the other stuff, but if you drift the boat back and tie up another boat along-side, that's how we've always jumped them.  

[cyclone]

It's the battery. Car batteries don't hold up, the lead plates break up and short due to hitting double ups and sulfate because they rarely get fully charged.

Here's how you check: Get a digital multimeter, they're cheap these days. Set it on DC volts, check the battery voltage with the boat not running. A fully charged battery should read about 12.7 VDC. Start the boat, read the battery voltage at the battery terminals while it is being charged. If the alternator is working, it should read higher than the battery did by itself, usually about 14.5 volts. That means your alternator works. You could check the battery over a couple of days, it will drop a volt or two over time. Easy thing is to take it out and take it to an auto parts store for load testing.

You can jump your epic with a good battery and remove it while the boat is running, I've done it. I now carry a jump starter ($50) from west marine, and have 2 batteries.

I would recommend replacing it with an Optima, they won't fail as quickly and will hold a charge indefinitely. They are not a direct retrofit for the series 58 that is in the boat stock, I cut out part of the lip on the driver side of the battery hole to fit one in my boat. I settled on a NAPA series 58 starting battery (stock size and location) and added an Optima deep cell and an isolator to run my stereo, see the how to page.

Good luck, if you need more help, let us know!

Pete

[toyotafreak]

Be SUPER careful jumping your battery, because I've heard that it will totally kill SOMETHING in the Epic (either MDC or engine CPU, not sure).

What does careful mean? Maybe turn off the battery switch before connecting or removing the jumper cables. I would never connect the cables to either end while the MDC or ECU are conected. Pete hasn't had a problem, so maybe I'm over-anal in this regard.

The main thing you need to walk away from here with is that you should never be working through battery/charging problems at the lake. Get a good battery (agree Optima Blue-top minimum), get your charging questions answered and don't mess around.

Finally, DON'T RUN YOUR BOAT OUT OF WATER unless it's on a fake-a-lake with plenty of water pressure. You do not want to melt an impeller and then have it gounnoticed until you're out and the thing shuts down for overtemp.

[dstafl]

Thanks for the info. I do have a fake a lake. I just need to get a new battery and be done with this issue.

[cyclone]

I made one out of a toilet plunger and a hose fitting. You can also disconnect the output hose of the sea strainer and jam a garden hose up inside with a rag to seal it. Use a good hose, tighten the clamp and  don't rev the engine. Watch the temp closely. I have not had any trouble that way, engine temp runs cold (148deg) , not even close to overheating. Normal temp on my engine at the lake is 168.

[lesman01]

WHere have ya'll purchased your Optima Blue Top Deep Cell batteries and is there a certain model number or type I should get? I have a feeling this is the year for a new battery.

Is this it? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ult-9016-103

[cyclone]

Les,
I'd recommend the Yellow top deep cell Optima that they sell at Costco. They may have marine batteries at the one by you, but at mine they only sell the red (starting) and yellow (deep cell and starting) Get the yellow, you'll be fine If they sell the blue ones, get the deep cell

The only difference (marine vs car battery) is the type of terminals.

We need to go wakeboarding, I was out today it was great.

[lesman01]

Thanks, that did the trick. I got the yellow top one from Costco.That sucker was stiill $149. Went out today on the maiden voyage. I sucked it up and got wet. water was 59 degrees. Not bad once you get in. Wish i would have brought my half wet suite.

[javman]

59 is down right warm.  Planning to go out with Fest and Brent on friday.  I am just hoping that it's at least 50.   I have only one battery in my boat and it's getting old.  Is the best way to go the costco yellow battery.  Is there any benefit over a walmart $40 cheapy?

[Lakeside]

WalMart private label batteries are made by Johnson Controls... they are the same batteries as the expensive ones.

[Lakeside]

I just read Derek's note above about jumping the boat's battery.  I got a jump from another boat on the lake last year when we were starting the Epic for the first time after a long winter's nap. 

While it worked fine and none of the Epic's electronics got fried, it didn't feel like the safest thing to do over open water (duh).  I'm not inclined to repeat the experience this year.  Like you guys, I think I'll spring for a new battery.

Anyhow, Johnson Controls makes everything including Optima, OEM for almost all Japanese cars including Toyota, Sears Die Hard, WalMart private label and lots more.  Here's their web site which gives battery buying tips and talks about all of their brands:

http://www.autobatteries.com/brands/index.asp