Newbie....just getting started

[cahonl]

Hey all, new to the Group and just bought a 2001 S22 last winter.  It hasn't seen water for me yet as I'm up in WI.  So far after cleaning it all up, I tossed a new battery in it and tried to see if it would crank.  Nothing.  Turn key on and all I get is Check Engine beep, no fire.  Can't seem to get blower or bilge or lights to come on either.  Its a new battery and when I turn the key the gages wake up, radio works, and I can see Perfect Pass come on.  Voltage on dash seems low at 11.0V even though 12.5V measured at battery.    How do I read a Check Engine light on these things?  Any chance there's an OBDII??  Thanks

[Sammamish Skier]

Two things come to mind for no start, neutral switch, and kill switch. Given that the gauges are working it's likely not the kill switch. The voltage is low at the dash. In my boat that was because it runs through the kill switch but it's common and as you've seen it doean't mean the battery is low. As far as OBD these boats use a toyotabonly protocol that predates ODB II. If you have access to toyota techstream you can read the codes if you setup for a celsior.

[cahonl]

I'm going to check all the fuses tomorrow, but will try to play with neutral and kill tomorrow as well.  Thanks!  Previous owner told me it worked fine when he put it away last fall.....famous last words!

Two things come to mind for no start, neutral switch, and kill switch. Given that the gauges are working it's likely not the kill switch. The voltage is low at the dash. In my boat that was because it runs through the kill switch but it's common and as you've seen it doean't mean the battery is low. As far as OBD these boats use a toyotabonly protocol that predates ODB II. If you have access to toyota techstream you can read the codes if you setup for a celsior.

[Capt Rick]

Place both red wires on one battery switch post. If gauges dont move or accessories do not work with in 5 inchs of battery post is a main 25 amp fuse. If you can crank engine, and no gauges work then lanyard is off or bad.

[cahonl]

I think I found a prob with that fuse by the battery switch today, but didn't have time to get parts to repair.  Might have to wait until later in the week. Thanks for the tip!  I also intend to look at the lanyard and neutral position.

Place both red wires on one battery switch post. If gauges dont move or accessories do not work with in 5 inchs of battery post is a main 25 amp fuse. If you can crank engine, and no gauges work then lanyard is off or bad.

[cahonl]

I think I found a prob with that fuse by the battery switch today, but didn't have time to get parts to repair.  Might have to wait until later in the week. Thanks for the tip!  I also intend to look at the lanyard and neutral position.

Place both red wires on one battery switch post. If gauges dont move or accessories do not work with in 5 inchs of battery post is a main 25 amp fuse. If you can crank engine, and no gauges work then lanyard is off or bad.

OK guys next round of ideas.  Battery fully charged.  Replaced 25A fuse & holder on battery switch, checked all fuses in small fuse panel on top front of engine.  Here's what I got:

Turn key to On I can use the radio.  I can here a slight hum from the engine.  Fuel pump manual override works. Check engine light comes on and constant beep for 15 sec or so, beep goes off and light stays on.  When I go to crank the engine, I can hear nothing happening back there, no click at the solenoid or anything.But..when I do turn it to start by PerfectPass and DDU both turn off.  DDU says Ignition Off.  Tried moving gear shifter to check if it knows its Neutral, but no change.

What next?

[Sammamish Skier]

Sounds like you are getting voltage via the ign line back to the computer as the fuel pumps IIRC wont work without that.  Do you get voltage at the ignition switch on the yellow/red when you turn the keybto the start position?  It's rare but the ignition switch can fail.

[cahonl]

This is going to sound strange but i was going to follow your idea to check the voltages on the key switch in start...in process of taking key switch out of dash, two wires popped off the back and I could not see which was for which post.  I guessed.  First way, my symptoms remained as above.  I decided I had nothing to lose by swapping the two wires, one was red with white and the other was two reds paired together.  After I swapped them, the bloody boat fired...i installed the fake a lake, and 5 seconds later I was idling for the first time.  Eureka!!  I wasn't really getting water out the exhaust, so thinking maybe my water pump is stuck...thinking I might toss it in the lake this week to see if the additional pressure lets the pump turn as it should.

[Sammamish Skier]

Sounds like you had loose wirea.  You may have cooked the impeller by starting the motor without a fake a lake, they can be really sensitive particularly if the impeller is older. I'd pull the plate off the back of the pump and check before you go to the lake. Also worth noting that it can take a minute or two for water to start exiting the exhaust at the transom if the exhaust system started dry.

[cahonl]

Thanks for the tip....sorry if I mistyped..I didn't start it dry, but releeased the guy as soon as the starter engaged...more out of suprise!

Since I don't really have any history on this 2001 S22 with 340 hours, I'll likely just put in a new impeller to be on the safe side.

Thanks all for your help - this is a great group!