http://www.discountcarstereo.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=116Found the link to all the interface stuff. Kenwood stuff is on page 9
Shawn, thanks for the details on your system. It is interesting that you have a 180 amp alternator. I noticed that yours is not black like the stock one. Is it a Toyota alternator? Also, what're you running for a head unit?
Glad the tower hat will work for you, I've ordered the right color one for my boat.
Cal, If you send me your head unit, I'll use it! That would solve a big problem I have, I'm running XM through an RF modulator and it sounds like poopie. Plus, my display is crapping out. Thanks!
Derek, I have been running Kenwood amps for the last couple of years. I agree, they are cheap and a LOT of bang for the buck. The ones I have opened up are all discrete component (no PA IC's) with very beefy power supplies, Elna Cerafine caps, etc. built in crossovers and stuff. There is a Kenwood factory outlet near me that sells scratch and dent stuff for almost nothing. My main amp was a KAC859 five channel amp, but now I want to run two more tower speakers at 2 ohm so I've got to upgrade. Plus, I got it wet and now it's Blow'd UP.
I'm going to relocated the amp and add another, I'm going to use better ones, probably Phoenix Gold. They are still pretty reasonable and they are 1 ohm stable. I have to add more subs, too. Maybe not NINE 12" ones, but more anyway.
I put my second battery behind the panel up against the hull on other side of the carpeted panel in the left side of the storage compartment. You could probably fit two end to end in there, I put one in a battery box mounted to the carpeted panel. I lost ZERO storage and it is very close to the amps. I still have had a dead battery after running the stereo for 4 hours or so, I think it was the Perfect Pass servo being powered. I have since moved the head unit from the stock batt to the Optima circuit, so it should fix that problem. I may still have a weak starting battery.