FIRST RUN AFTER MODS

[wakejunky]

All I can say is "OH MY GODDDDDD!!!!!"? ? . Just had the boat out after installing new prop, perfect pass, and fully automatic 1500lbs. of ballast. I didnt realize my toyota let alone a direct drive could be this impressive. I was hoping for a good wake but HOLY SH@T !!! Ill try to get some pics soon. But I had to brag.

[toyotafreak]

You brag all you want at this site :-)  Hey, bring us up to date on the prop, the sacs and the pumps. Inquiring minds are too lazy to search the archives ;-)

[cyclone]

Wakejunky,
Enlighten us with some pics of your ballast install, I'm curious to see what you used and where you put your sacks, pumps, switches, etc. I'm glad to hear that you are happy with the install, PP is a godsend.

[blindside]

Yes, don't leave us hanging.  What setup did you use on your ballast system, where is the weight distributed, did you fit 1500 lbs in the truck?

[wakejunky]

Hey guys, sorry i was so brief it was about 1am last night. Ill start with the prop. I bought the 542 acme 3 blade (13 RH 11.5 X 1 with .080 cup). This is what acme recommended for my set up.

The ballast system goes like this 1 1/2 scoop thru hull to electric gate valve and 1 1/2 pvc manifold (just like the rival system) then i have four 3/4 inch ports. 1 for each bag in the front and 2 for the back bag.? right off the manifold I have 3/4 inch check valve followed by a 3/4 inch "T" . one of the legs goes to another check valve and then to a thru hull fitting.(EMPTY) the other leg goes directly to the pump. the pumps are simer reversibles. the pumps are self priming and pull the water from the manifold into the bags. the check valve in the empty line is so it wont suck air. when the bags are full water is pushed out thru the overflow a 3/4 inch line to a check valve followed by a thru hull. giving a visual image the bags are full. Now to empty water will be pulled out of the sack through the pump. the water will hit the first check valve and is pushed back out through the empty line at the "T"? that i mentioned earlier. the check valve in the overflow line also keeps the pumps from sucking air and the bags shrivel up like raisins (air tight). when water stops pouring out the empty line I again get a visual that they are empty and to shut off the pumps. Now for the bags I used the straightine launchpad 350lbs v drive twins. one under the driver and the other in the left front storage area. about 1/4 of the bags are under the front seats. so they dont fill all the way. I measured and each one filled is about 250lbs. Now for the back I used the Fluid Concepts 1000 pounder. it fits like a glove and fills almost the entire trunk.? for the electrical I used the control panel to the right of the driver for all my switches. the switches actuate 2 relays per pump (empty and fill). I made a panel to hold all the relays ( 8 in all ) and placed it behind the dash.

when I first hit the water I ran with no ballast just to check the prop and perfect pass out. The first big difference I noticed was the hole shot WOW!!! The new prop pushed the roost back about 5 feet from stock. Then i added ballast and WALLS of water started to shoot up. I was IMPRESSED to say the least. We used to ride at about 65 feet now with the roost further back and the wake we will start riding about 80 feet out. As soon as it stops raining I'll get some pics.?

[cyclone]

Dig it, you need to post pics for us retards. I wanna know where your vents are for your bags under the front seats, pumps, etc.

For anyone else that's interested, your boat is already wired and fused for a ballast system. I was poking around today and found the pigtails in my harness, they're in yours too.

[2000epic]

wakejunky man, your my new bestest buddy.  that said, what is the model Simer did you use, I can't find any 12 volt aplications in my searches.  Tell us more about this electric gate valve, inquiring minds want to know

[cyclone]

Here's the one I'll probably use. Don't waste your time with sprinkler valves, they're way too restrictive. I'll use one of these to have a positive shutoff of the inlet without having to go under the clamshell to turn off a handvalve.

http://www.1valves.com/electricvalves.html

[2000epic]

that's exactly what I was thinking of, thanks pete

[wakejunky]

Hey guys
2000epic to answer your questions I got my pumps at B.E. Atlas. tell them you want the BW8512. they are $67 a piece. Phone # is 773 283-2550. They dont have a web site and If you just tell them you want a simer pump they will have no idea what your talking about. Please dont get the idea they are difficult to deal with. they're customer service is top notch. One of my pumps was damaged when I got it and they got me a new one no problem.? i didnt even have to return the old one. They are shipped directly from simer not B.E. Atlas. The electric gate valve I used was by Drain Master. It is 3 inch and you have to buy reducers to get down to 1 1/2 inch. I would have used the one cyclone found. but I got a smokin deal on the other. Try $30 verses $100. My local Camping World must have had them marked wrong because there web site shows $100. Either one will work but the valterra looks much more compact and you dont have to buy reducers. It took me over a month just to find all the parts for my system the web is not "ballast friendly".
If anyone would like part #, stores, or prices let me know. I was able to find some good deals. But keep in mind my ballast system cost around $1200. And I did all the labor. I thought I could do it for $500 when I first started. But I ended up with a much more complex system.? Also keep in mind the parts I bought were top quality and made the install much easier. especially the check valves I found. I wanted to stay with Toyota's commitment to quality and longivity. After all isnt that the reason we love our boats.
it still hasnt stopped raining here as soon as it does Ill get those pics ASAP. Just a little warning for those about to install perment parts (thru hull fittings). Measure 15 TIMES and drill once. I redesigned my ballast system 3 times before I found suitable locations for my thru hull scoop. Originally my manifold was going to be in the rear. I measured and it all looked good(I thought) and right before I started drilling I got all the parts and did a mock up and found out it wasnt going to work. Then later I thought I was set and realized the thru hull scoop WAS going to sit directly on one of the trailer bunks. so please beware.
? ? I dont mean to discourage anyone but I would hate to see someone have to patch a hull. I love working on my boat and get alot of pride out of doing things my self and Im sure some of you feel the same way.?

[wakejunky]

Finally got some pics. Sorry about the wait.

[wakejunky]

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[wakejunky]

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[Chris A]

Very nice set-up? ? It s every bit as good as Rivals' system or any of the other outfitters out there, and you should get some good performance out of those simer pumps.? What kind of check valves are those?? They look very compact and easy to install?? And where did you get the hose?? We get ours from GoodYear.? It is pretty evpensive but works great for both infusion stuff and ballast plumbing.? GoodYear calls it their "SPIRAFLEX. AGGIE PVC SUCTION HOSE".? Found that heating it up a bit with a heat gun makes it real easy to press on the fittings.? Anyways, great install now you just have to show us some pics of that WAKE yo?

[2000epic]

very nice.  Thanks for taking the time to reply with details, you've saved me alot of time with my parts research, and the pictures are great!