Auto Bilge - Is there a normal frequency?

[snowrider]

When I first bought the boat (99 E22) the auto bilge would never come on and I would manually switch it on at least once per session. Now the auto bilge has started coming on 2-3 times per session (3hrs or so). Just curious if that is, or if there is a normal/acceptable frequency and what to look for if there is a leak. I don't know much about the collection into the bilge area, but there is consistently water there. No water in the engine area where the 2nd plug is. Thanks for the help.

[toyotafreak]

Mine goes of very frequently - not packing drips but melting ice draining into the bilge.

[snowrider]

From searching and reading the posts it seems like I should check the prop shaft nut to see if there is excessive leaking and if it needs to be tightened. The maintenance sections shows how, but here is my stupid question - where is the prop shaft nut located on the direct drive/how do I get to it?
Oh, and I am going to try and open/clean the sea strainer just for kicks.............fun times! Thanks in advance for any help.

[eagle1wi]

The packing nut is under the rectangular section right behind the engine box.  Look for a round metal pop up thingy to get a hold of it - similar to the one for the battery/bilge.

[snowrider]

Thanks for the information. So, it can't be reached by opening the engine cover? My battery cover has no latch - it has to be pried open. Thanks again for any information.

[extruop]

On my X-22 direct drive, I remove the entire engine cover (In other words, open the hinged part of the cover. Remove the plastic thumb screws that hold the base of the cover to the floor.  Close the cover.  Re-hook the rubber clamps and lift the whole thing off the engine.).  Dont panic, this sounds worse than it is.  Rest the cover on the back of the transom.  There are two floor plates between the engine and the back of the boat.  You can only see one without removing the back seat.  The carpet makes for a snug fit but these plates lift out.  There is no hardware holding them down. Personally, I pull my rear seat out and pull the rear plate under the seat first.  Once the rear plate is out the next plate comes out fairly easy. Pulling the one next to the engine first is tricky because it is so close to the transmission.

Once you get these plate out you will see the shaft seal.

[eagle1wi]

Yes, if it is a tight fit pull out the back seat.  I don't have to take the engine cover off on my E21 though, I can pull the rectangle out towards the rear bench to get to it.  (Mine's in two pieces, one rectangle under the rear seat - no pull'er up thingy - and one to get to the seal) It only sits a little under the engine box so I just leave it on and pull both sections out. The "X" 's are probably a little different dimensionally and may be a tighter fit relative to the tranny.

[snowrider]

Thank you for the details. I will try getting in there and checking it all out. When the previous posts mention tightening the prop shaft nut 1/4 turn and then checking to see how frequently it drips are you out on the water with the engine cover off and back seat all pulled up?

Here is my next stupid question - under the winterization procedure it shows how to clean/empty the sea strainer and leave it empty for winter. If I am going to do that now and drop it back into the water does it need to be cleaned and filled back up with water or can it be left empty?

[eagle1wi]

I leave the back seat out on the dock while I am checking for the "drips" but once you have the thing open you can see the shaft packing with the seat in there if you don't have anwhere to put it.

That is part of the reason I don't like taking the whole clamshell off unless it is necessary, it takes two people to get it around and is big and clumsy. 

The sea strainer will fill itself back up if you leave it dry.  Just make sure it primes (no more air pocket) once you are going again.  If it doesn't - you might be looking at putting an impeller in - but that is a whole 'nother chapter in Pete's vast amount of documented knowledge posted here.

[snowrider]

Well, I got out on the water today and checked things out. Both panels came out by removing back seat, then lifing out furthest rear panel then sliding panel under engine cover forward and out. The prop shaft nut at idle was leaking a consistent flow. Tried tightening and then going slowly in gear and still flow, less but still consistent, basically tightened almost as far as it would by hand and still a small consistent flow at idle - certainly no drip,drip,drip or less. So, I am assuming it needs the prop shaft repacked. At least I think I was able to identify the problem!

The auto bilge didn't kick on today, which when I checked the bilge area didn't seem that unusual because there wasn't much water  but when I tried to turn the bilge on manually there was nothing........even if it doesn't pump a lot of water when I have turned it on manually it has made that sucking air type sound...it has been on 'auto' and working perfect and I have switched it to manual in the past and it has worked. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help.

[breakawaydaze]

Get a garden hose and fill your hull around the pump.  Leave it on "auto" and see if it works.  I doubted mine and it tested fine.  On my S22 the bilge pump is way up front and rarely sees enough water to turn on.   I was concerned because when I took the boat out of the water and had it on the ramp, 8-10 gallons would come rolling out after pulling the plug.  Most of the water just sits on the rear due to the angle when it is on the lake.