New Guages?

[Lakeside]

After visiting the boat show, I'm glad to see once again that the fit and finish of our Epics rival any new boat out there right now.  The first tier mfr's are in the same league (it took them 8 years to catch up) and the second tier mfr's still have a way to go.

The only part of our boats that seem dated are the guages on the dash.  How hard would it be to replace our OEM guages with newer ones?  I would think that it can be done, unless the Toyota computer that sends the data to the guages is not compatible with newer replacement guages.  Any ideas?

[Capt Rick]

Most of the gauges are available on TMS parts - The computer for the gauges in others wont operate the Toyota Tach. signal which is for a 4 cylinder

[cyclone]

Yeah but I could make a pulse doubler circuit pretty easy if you wanted to try it.   
A 4 cyl tach is 2 pulse per rev, an 8 cyl tach is 4 PPR. You would have to switch to PP anyway to get a working speedo, might as well get a PP gauge that matches. The PP box will come with firmware that will work with 2 PPR. HEY Wait a minute. I can get a cool PP gauge with integrated tach. WOW. That means I get a speedo back! Since the factory Toyota speedo system rarely works, and can flood and kill your MDDC computer, I removed mine. The PP display has speed on it. I would like to have a dial speedo back, driven off the PP display.

Come to think of it, there is no reason not to swap over. I already have mismatched gauges (there are a couple of styles of Toyota gauges, I have both:) Plus, I can get a new PP display that matches my gauges, with integrated tach. If I could get my multifunction display to just show depth all the time....

The only problem is the hour meter is in the tach on my boat. Hmm.

I'll probably leave it alone, sell the boat and let the next guy do it for a fun project. It should be pretty much bolt on.

I will just enjoy the pristine SX that will be on its way east in a couple of days:)

[Lakeside]

OK, what does this mean in common language?

Can we go purchase non-TMS guages that fit into our dash and will they work?

I've got a stock '99 E22 without PP.  I gotta agree that the factory speedo never really works too well.  Looking at TMS parts list it looks like guages are listed for early model or late model boats.  Can I upgrade to a newer model TMS guages?  Would I even want to upgrade to newer model TMS guages, since TMS guages appear to be an achillies heel on the Epics?  Are the new guages compatible with a '99?

What do you guys think?

[cyclone]

It's not the gauges that are bad, its the condition of the computer, wiring and electrical system of your boat. The new boats use the same computer, and sometimes have similar problems and complaints, i.e. the malibu forum.

Yes, you can get new gauges, stick them in, and they should read something. The tach may read 1/2 speed, it may not. I know a tach driven off the PP will read 1/2 because the engine delivers 2 pulses per revolution vs. 4 for "normal" v8 engines.

I thought you were asking if you could do it for cosmetic reasons. Yes, with the exception of the tach which would require a pulse doubler circuit (little piece of perfboard with a couple of components on it)

If you have unreliable gauges right now, try running an 8 gauge red and black pair from the Perko switch/Batt up under the dash. Put a terminal or fuse block on the  back wall up under the dash, run a 10 gau. red and black pair to the Plus and Minus posts on the digital switchbox (up under steering column) Put a 30-50 amp fuse near the battery in the red 8ga. wire. Fuse the 10 ga. if you plan to use a lot of accessory power from the terminal strip.

[SpokaneX22]

Cyclone, would your process for changing these wires fix my issue with my fuel indicator freeking when it hits 3/4 full?  From that point on I really can't use the computer because it is always flashing the "low fuel" warning.

Thanks, Jason

[Lakeside]

Pete,

I was asking for cosmetic reasons, but when I read your comment it reminded me that my speedos are pretty erratic, too.

Thanks.

[rustnrot]

Gang, virtually all the tachs I have ever seen, both marine and automotive, a switch(s) on the back to choose 4, 6 or 8 cylinders.  Methinks setting for the 4 cyl position would work for this engine.  Also, it appears that the sensors that the other gauges hook up to (speedo excepted) have their own dedicated standard marine analog sensor.  I'll know soon as I am using this engine in a special project with Gaffrig gauges.  I will be using a GPS speedo.

[cyclone]

Cyclone, would your process for changing these wires fix my issue with my fuel indicator freeking when it hits 3/4 full?  From that point on I really can't use the computer because it is always flashing the "low fuel" warning.

Thanks, Jason

Is the gauge erratic or is it just the dang alarm? If you look in the manual on the Medallion gauges on the maintenance page, it tells you how to set the limit for the hi oil alarm and the voltage alarm, probably fuel as well. See page four of this document.
http://www.epicmarine.com/docs/TSB20-Rev1-Digital_Display_Unit.pdf

[cyclone]

While you are at it, read this one too.

http://www.epicmarine.com/docs/Digital_Instrument_Guide.pdf

[blindside]

Change out the black bezels for chrome ones available from supra or mastercraft.  Or change out the whole dash compartment and put the yota guages in the new dash.  Pimp yo ride

[SpokaneX22]

Thanks for the links to the manuals but I think my issue is with the analog gauges  mis-reading the fuel capacity and then the computer is receiveing the low fuel signal and starts flashing the warning.  SO as an openended question to everyone what do you think I should start with...1. the float inside the tank or 2. the wiring to the gauge?  If anyone else has had this issue I would really like to know what they did to fix the problem.

Thanks so much, JD

[HellBoy]

Thank you guys for being such a great resource for a new Toyota owner!  I know this isn't exactly the original topic but on my first voyage out in my 00 Epic 22 I had the same problem with my fuel gauge.  Holy S*** that was an awesome feeling being 5 miles from the boat launch and seeing your fuel gauge go from 3/4 to empty just like that.  I also would appreciate any fixes anyone tried!   

[wakejunky]

Add the dedicated power and ground to the DECC! There is a major voltage drop problem, with the stock wire size and the distance it needs to travel. I had experienced off and on probelms with gauges for a while. When i was out last week testing my new ballast, it was a bit cold so I turned on the heater and instantly started to overheat, shut down the boat to check and it didn't seem that hot. fired it back up it was fine, turned on the heater and watched the gauge climb in to the red instantly! I also noticed I had gained about 40 psi. of oil pressure and about a 1/3 of a tank of gas. Shut off the heater and everyting dropped accordingly.

I added 10 guage wire, went out again and experienced the most accurate guages I've seen in any boat, let alone an Epic.

Do it!! It's a cheap fix and will make you very happy. I'm begining to wonder how many times in the last couple years I really wasn't overheating.

[wakejunky]

Ooops. That would be 8 guage not 10 guage.