Over heating

[ALandy]

I have put in a new impler and the damn thing still runs hot. My boat is a 2001 S22. Its propably the thermasat but I do not know were it is and if it is the thermasat what kind and can I do with out it.

[Capt Rick]

What is telling you it is overheating? Feel the manifolds and they should be able to put hand on!

The temperature has an alarms also. Look at TMS Part Engine Fiqure #13 for location.

A faulty ground will read high temp if you run the heater.

[Rambling Wreck]

Also look at the intake water strainer to make sure it isn't clogged.

Capt Rick, I don't want to steal the thread but last week I took the boat for a short spin. I looked down and the temp gauge was climbing FAST. After the initial panic, I scanned everything (pilot training came in handy) and noticed that the blower was still on. I shut if off and the temp started to ease off. Shortly it was back to normal. I rode around for another 10 minutes and turned the blower back on. The temperature began to climg again. I don't feel as if the guage was reading incorrectly since the change wasn't instantaneous but thought I would ask if a faulty ground is a possible culprit in my case.

[festivus]

The thermostat is right on the back of the block under the belt.  It is very easy to chack and change.  WHen Javman and I changed ours last years they were both a little cruddy,  but still working.  An easy thing to check. 

[lesman01]

Alandy, I feel ur pain. I have had overheating probs off and on for a few seasons.

Read the whole thread here complete with input from folks who know what they are talking about...

http://www.epicmarine.com/forum4/index.php?topic=501.0

Long storyshort, run a 8ga wire from the ground terminal of the battery to the terminator under the dash. Worked for me. So far

[ALandy]

Well thanks for all the advice but I have a few new problwms On one has ever mentioned. For the most part it runs fine at idle and at tow speeds(21-25) its when you get up to crusing speeds it will jump up over the 200 mark but then it mite go all the way back down to around 160 in just a few seconds. But it likes to stay in the 180-195 range. Please tell me what is wrong.

PS.I dont have a heater.

[toyotafreak]

Did you remove and clean the strainer? Did you remove and clean/test the thermostat? Did you check all connections and run a new wire from the battery to the dash?

I'd try running it on the fake-a-lake and carefully check out how much and what temp the water is coming out the exhaust (like is it warm or hot, is it coming out, etc.)

[ALandy]

That's cool but what am I looking for I know a fair amount on how to work on cars and I used to build custom off road Toyota trucks and jeeps but this boat thing is way above me. Plus I have only had the boat since the first of May(not even a month). And I have had to rebuild The alternator, replace the impeller,put a mass air flow meter on it, have the computer rebuilt, buy a propeller, and it is still running hot. The funny thing is it only has 140 hours on it, and on top it looks like it. Hey, one more question what is the most weight anyone has ever put in one of these boats?

[masonlk]

I don't have the expertise the rest of you have. I've got about 15 min. in the boat with the dealer and just took possession today so be gentle if this sounds off the wall and your first thought is that I don't know what the hell I'm talking about.   After reading most everything in here it appears to me that most of the problems end up stemming from faulty elec. signals. Wire up a good aftermarket temp. gauge to the temp. sensor at the engine. You can just use one of those little blue inline splicers. Ground the gauge directly to the engine, set it on the floor next to the engine and run it. At this point you should get a true temp. reading since nothing else is in between or attached. I'd unhook the dash gauge too while doing this. If it's not hot...follow Pete's lead and wire direct from battery to digital switchbox under dash. I'm going to do this before I even go out. On my boat the dealer also changed the inline battery fuse to a Weather Pack type fuse holder with shrink tube around the connections. The round glass one from the factory was loosing contact and then reconnecting which caused it to blow. Sealedfuseholder.com for a picture. Car dealer to purchase? If it still reads hot after this and everything else you've done, it's way beyond me! Good Luck!!!

[cyclone]

Alandy, your boat must have been sitting a lot, those are very unusual problems in my experience. I would run it a bit, if the exhaust manifolds get too hot to touch, shut it down. If not, I'd ignore the temp indication and run the boat a bit.

I've put up to 2k in mine, it gets too sluggish with any more than that, like a new Xstar with the stock motor:) I think a change to the acme 3 blade would fix that problem to some degree, I am running a 4 blade OJ 13x13 LH with .080 cup.

I talked to Danny Harf a couple of years ago, he used to put three full sized sacks in the trunk, one in the walkway, and one across the front seats of his X22. Of course, he probably had Capt. Rick putting transmissions in it for him every month.

[toyotafreak]

Wow, that's a ton of stuff. I thought my alternator was bad, had it tested, only to find out that the gauges were the problem. Didn't the guy that was "storing the boat for some people" say the thing was running great? Same boat?

A little more info would help, and now I'm really curious why all that stuff had to be replaced. Basically, I'm wondering on whose recommendation you swapped all that stuff. Not that I'm a rocket scientist or anything, but it sounds wierd to do all that and not pull the thermostat, etc. The MAF thing indicates runability issues - I know the MAFs will fail in time, but now?...and with the computer and stuff but no mention of the prime suspects (spark plugs & fuel pumps)?

Very sorry to hear that you've had to do more stuff to yours than ten average S22s put together, and I really ain't trying to be an ass, either.

The good news is that I've had 3K in mine - it would plane with two adults inside, but with three, we had to lean forward a little :-) If you want to run with that kind of weight, I'd suggest going for even less pitch than the usual ACME recommendation (13x11.5). Prop that thing to where you're pulling 4,000 rpm at heavy weights and 24 mph - probably be an outstanding part of the power band. Weight fore and aft equally (-ish). I do 700 in trunk and 700 in walkway and always keep some weight under the bow cushions for trim (up to a couple hundred pounds).

Oh yeah, and get Perfect Pass (break out another thousand).

[Rambling Wreck]

1. Is this the boat that was for sale by Jweltman?
2. Have you tried all of the suggestions posted so far?

[lesman01]

Please clarify the manifold thing.

Pete, you mentioned touching the exhaust manifolds to see if it's too hot to touch. Really? CAn you touch the exhaust manifolds when it's at temp? PLease, i'm not being a smart a**, but Capt. has said touch the "manifold" to make sure it's not too hot to touch, without clarifying if it's the intake or exhaust.

[blindside]

exhaust manifold should be warm but cool enough to place your hand on it.  If it's not than there is probably not any water going through it and you have a bad impeller.

[toyotafreak]

Lesman, the "OUCH" places indicated would take your skin in a car, but remember there's a layer of fresh water being circulated between the hot exhaust and the exterior surface to keep the whole dillywhacker from cooking the compartment. The intake manifold is up top and will be only warm even during the hottest summer months. Don't try either on your car. Unless you're looking to get rid of fingerprints.