Temp Gauge going up!!!

[curtis]

Yo Doctors,
I have a 1999 E-22 every time a turn on the Fac. inst. heater my temp
gauge goes from 165 to 240 degrees in a couple of heart beats...Shut the heater off and back to normal. Any suggestions on a solution? Normally runs at 165-170
Curtis B009

[Capt Rick]

Locate the ground wire from the heater and place it on the battery ground terminal of the fuse block.  Also make sure the ground wires on the battery and engine are clean.

[lesman01]

And speaking of temperature. My temperature was running hot this weekend, or at least according to the gauge. It goes like this. Boat running normally about 175-185. Stop the boat, turn off engine, temp rises to 200-205 plus. turn key off. wait 3-5 minutes. turn ign. key back on(not the motor), temp starts at 175 and quickly rises to 200-207+, even higher than before i turned it off??? How is that possible?

Plus, when idling it tends to bump the 200 deg. warning threashold occassionally until I start moving.

I had similar problem with high temp a year or so ago, took it to Tony at Atl Marine, after being unable to duplicate the hi temp reading, he said "those motors will shut down before they will run too hot. The temp. guage may be off a little" and offered to replacec the instruments. He did not seemed too concerned about the gauge readings, and lead me to believe that there is some sort of safety mechanism in the engine that would not let it hurt itself by running hot. From what I know of Tony I trust him, but am interested in feedback. As any one else heard this theory?

I had my impeller replace about 50 hours ago and will clean the sea stainer just to be sure. anything else to check?

[wakejunky]

? ? ? ?Please what ever you do, DO NOT believe the engine has any shut off warning what so ever. These engines are not resisitant to low oil levels or heat. That thing will run even after you've blown the headgaskets, washed out the cylinders, and have water blowing out the tailpipe. Ive seen toyota engines run until the rings sieze to the cylinders and the top of the pistons sheer off. If toyota or any other manufacturer could utilize that type of system it would save them tens of thousands of dollars in warranty repairs. Toyota is in the very last stages of a recall that has cost millions. 1988 to 1995 v6 truck and 4 runner headgaskets were faulty and depending on the damage replaced the short block and both cylinder heads. I fixed engines that got so hot the plastic valve covers melted into the heads. In 1995 when they redesigned the v6 engine (3.4 liter) it also blew headgskts. mostly externally but some also washed out cylinders and cracked cylinder heads. at the dealership last week we had a 2002 highlander that got so hot it cracked the block, the cylinder head, and literally ripped the head bolt threads out of the block. If toyota could prevent that type of thing you can bet they would.

? ?your temp always goes up on your engine when you shut it off. what happens is the impeller stops moving and so does all that water in the engine. the block is still hot and is dissapating heat into those water jackets and with no movement that water can almost boil. This happens even in your cars. thats why sometimes you may hear someones cooling fans running on their cars in a parking lot when the cars not running and no one is there. for example most volkswagons continue to run the fans until the car cools off.

 Last year i ran into the same situation a couple times after prolonged idling. Its my bet that at an idle the impeller doesnt flow enough water for prolonged idling. I would press the button in at the throttle and rev up the engine and it would usually cool down. a couple times I had to just go out and run it a bit. Now I just shut down the engine if im idling very long. My impeller was in great shape and had recently been changed. This could be very hard to duplicate with a fake a lake. you probably have colder than lake water at the tap and you have the assistance of tap pressure to help the impeller cool the engine. it can be difficult to actually duplicate real conditions at a shop.

? ?i would say unless you experience overheating above idle that there probably is not a problem. Just to cover all the bases, how long had you been idling before you experienced overheating?

[festivus]

I have always been pretty picky about shutting down the boat b/n boarder swaps and any prolonged idling.  I have been in other boats where they never shut it down, even for several minutes or longer to switch riders or just hanging out.  I haven't ever noticed any significant temperature spikes after shutting down.  Is there a recommended idle time before shut down, or is it simply preference? 

[curtis]

Cap,Les,Wake,Fest,
Thanks for the replies. We will try the fix the next time out. The only
other thing that sets the temp high is those squirt boat rummies spoiling
glass at 6:45am.
Again, lots of great info,Tx
Curtis B009

[cyclone]

I leave mine idling all the time to charge the batteries, never had an overheat problem. Tony is pretty good, but he'll make stuff up sometimes if he's not sure about something. He's at the local Nautiques dealer now, I have his number in case we have a serious question.

[lesman01]

Pete, what's your normal running temp at idle and moving?

[cyclone]

With my first impeller, 170. With the new one 163. Yeah, I prolly should replace them more often after 640 hours. Lanier is a pretty clean lake, I think that has a lot do do with it.

[lesman01]

After reading the replies here I decided that i really did not have a temp problem, but went to the lake today and I'm still bothered by the hi temp.

when idling or going very slow for about 7-10 minutes, the temp goes up to 200 or so(alarm goes off). when i  rev it up a bit using the button on the throttle, that brings it dowm below warning threshold, but still in the 190s. even a few times will running at WOT the temp creeped up to 200, but gravitated iratically between 190-202. Now I'm paranoid reading stuff about blown head gaskets and washed out cylinders(whatever that is) and such.( thanks wakejunky. I hear ya loud and clear.)

So, what do I do now? Is 200 really too hot? It never has stayed above 200 for more than 45 seconds or a minute...although it feels like forever when it's happening. What other diagnostics can I run? Can the temp gauge be off like the other gauges on the computer? I know that the voltage guage is definately wrong because my PP tells me it's a constant 12.5 volts, where the computer tells me it gravitates between 10.8 and 12.

The only thing I can think of is to take it to atl marine and make them go out with me and hopefully it will do it then. what wold they do if it is running hot?

Paranoid OCD Epic owner,

Lesman

[cyclone]

I'd definitely pull the water pump and look at the impeller, see if there's anything jammed in it. You should also make sure your thermostat is working, you can take that out and test it in a pan on the stove with a meat thermometer. When reinstalling, orient  it so that the little hole is on top, it only fits in one way:) The hole is a burp valve, you could have an air bubble in your cooling system, that will make the sensor readings inaccurate.

[toyotafreak]

Sorry I've not been contributing lately, but everyone else seems to be doing just fine. I don't know what our temp is at (been like five months since we've been out ;-(, but I can tell you that we've never ever had a temperature alarm or an oil pressure alarm. Neither have either gauge shown abnormal readings. I do change the impeller every year (might relax that this year). Oil pressure drops at idle just like the Sequoia, comes up nice and strong under load just like the sequoia. Temperature just hasn't beeen an issue. BTW, I've enver opened the sea water strainer cuz it's too tight, but it's a clear bowl and looks clear.



Epmasized again, based on wakejunky's insider input...CHANGE YOUR IMPELLER EVERY YEAR or risk your M1UZ.

[lesman01]

I checked the thermostat and it springs open normally in hot water...great tip Pete. I checked the impeller and it looks pretty good.  I will replace it anyway while I've got the waterpump out.

I'm beginning to think the computer is hosed. My readings are pretty irratic all the time. Voltage is way off, temp is erratic, now that you mention it gr8nda, my low oil pressure alarm has gone off once at low speed/idle. I can deal with erroneous volt reading, but when oil and temp gauges start going off, I can't ignore that.

What else could contribute to hi temp readings? Mind you, it's not all the time, and there seems to be no real pattern. Mostly at idle, but not always. Sometimes WOT, but just a few seconds. Any other way to read the temp except through the computer? It's just buggin the crap out of me. If I replace the computer, what's the part number and how much. Is there are option?

I know, lots of questions, but if anyone will know, it's you guys.

Lesman -

[rdilday]

I had my 2000 sx22 at Newport Boats in Corona California for 5 month last year trying to fix the overheating. It went to 240 at times. Toyota changed everything, heat exchanger, impeller, filters, hoses,etc. Finally the Toyota service tech helped them with a problem from that years engine manufacturing. It was a nylon bushing that was not installed in the engine passage to the thermostat. The passage got clogged with gunk and reduced the water flow. My boat has the freshwater cooling system . Call newport boats they will remember my boat and the trouble they went to fix it . 5 trips to Lake Elsinor. Or call directly to the Toyota Rep in Florida.

[toyotafreak]

Welcome to the site. I live in Corona, worked at NB in '96-97. Must hook up some time.